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Cam chain tensioner replacement, Round 2

41K views 29 replies 14 participants last post by  BrooklynCKIA  
#1 ·
In April, I had my local dealer perform TSB 148 on my 2014 Cadenza. This was done in accordance with the revised TSB. Mileage was 36,635. Approximately 2000 miles after the completion of the TSB, the noise slowly started to come back. I now have 6400 miles since the TSB and on startup, the thrashing is very pronounced. I am trying to talk my Rep at the Kia Preferred Access Team but I am having difficulty getting a call back. I did miss one call, and called back 5 minutes later but could not connect.

My question is, how many folks here have had the Cam Chain Tensioner replaced but had the noise return. If you were successful, and the noise did not return, please say so and let us no how many miles you have driven the car since the work was performed. If the noise returned, how many miles did it take before you noticed it.
 
#12 ·
I believe that this adds on parts for another vehicle. If you look at it nothing looks updated for the Cadenza.
 
#14 ·
Picked up my 2014 yesterday after they had installed the new cam tensioner, and replaced two of the guides. My service manager said the problem is the last tensioner in the oil feed, so it was getting oil last. He mentioned the new tensioners use SKF bearings that don't need oil vs. the original KIA bearings??

Now to listen closely!
 
#16 ·
Have an apt. on Thurs to have my car looked at again for TSB148. My display has also been messing up lately, it will go a weird multi-colored dark static snow and will just show a distorted "Uvo" image and freezes. Turning the car off, opening/closing the door, and waiting a few minutes will usually fix it but still annoying. It did it to me on Saturday again and I had mentioned that for my apt. for Thurs so I called the dealership and swung by there to show it to them while it was still up there. They are ordering a new radio for me now too.
 
#19 ·
I just got my car back. Kia will not let my dealer perform TSB148 again though the rattle is back. They have said that the rattle for 2-3 seconds at startup is normal for this type of engine.
 
#20 ·
Hm, same setup here. Just picked it up from my dealer. After testing and confirming the issue, they replaced one of injectors and did a cold soak startup re-testing after that. Ended up as "brief rattle is expected and nothing to worry about".

Not sure that I'm satisfied with this answer as noise is clearly strange and doesn't sound "natural", but will keep an eye on it.

Seems like every oil change also fixes this issue for couple thousand miles.
 
#30 ·
Fixes

Has anyone had this done and not had any issues 5-10k miles later... i see some had the issue reoccur
I have had the tensioner parts replaced just over 3 years ago , I only have 27000 miles on my 2014 cadenza, thanks god it never came back, however I do notice my engine shakes for about 10 seconds after a cold start, and I do need to clean my TB assembly again,
 
#23 ·
The issue comes back and my dealer told me (that the Kia techs told them) that this is just normal operation for this engine and replacing the tensioner again will do nothing. We've basically been told to deal with it.
 
#24 ·
I had the tensioner replaced on my 2014 Cadenza and I no longer hear the rattle (2000 miles so far) but I still have a very rough idle on cold start. (Every morning) When I say rough I am talking about moving the body on the suspension. It goes away in under a minute and runs as smooth as butter. The dealer says that this is normal but my thought is that on a car with computer control and all of the sensors it should start and run cold as well as all of the cars I've had without the brains. Has anyone else had this same issue?
 
#25 ·
I'll tell you from experience, what you described is NOT normal. I've had the chain rattle, had the repair done, had the car for 5 years and over 60k miles of my own, the engine has never shook the car at startup ever.
 
#26 ·
That said, I keep a clean engine too. I clean the throttle body out every time I clean the KnN filter. So about every 15000 miles I wipe out all that buildup. I think it comes from the PCV valve sending dirty air into the intake. That buildup is normal, but it does need to be cleaned. It will make the throttle stick at startup, and may not fully close, or otherwise not move correctly at startup. Once the top of the motor warms up the throttle moves freely. Not sure if that's directly related to your situation but I'd always suggest starting there if you haven't.

That's not a warranty fix, so you'll be charged for a TB cleanout and they may offer an Induction cleanout service separate to that. It's not a bad thing, I just think they charge too much since I know how to clean the TB myself and I also run seafoam in the gas tank very often, usually after 5-6 full tanks i put in 20 oz of seafoam and run the tank to fumes before filling up again. I actually get the big can, think it's a gallon container, it's much cheaper then the 16 Oz bottles even if those things are on sale. Point being, I'm probably as much as 80-85% cleaner then an engine they would normally get in to do the induction cleanout, so the stuff they do for like $100 wouldn't really increase my performance much at all. Because even they can't get me to 100% cleanout, they would just get me a little closer.
 
#27 ·
I 100% agree with MadMax...actual shaking of the car during startup is NOT normal. I had the Rev 4 (latest) of that TSB done to my car about a year & 30K miles ago and the start up rattle returned within the week. I just left it and figure it is what it is. Now, opposite to MadMax's excellent cleaning schedule, I don't invest that much time and effort into my car. Saying that, currently at 58K miles I've never run any cleaning agent through my fuel system, nor have I ever cleaned my throttle body. My car still starts, runs and drives perfect. That being said, At 60K miles I have some preventative maintenance planned including cleaning the throttle body.
 
#28 ·
@onlyjeeps, I would suggest a bottle of fuel additive like Techron (it's recommended in the user manual) after an oil change. It is supposed to help clear out any carbon fouling junk, and it's easy to do, literally just open the bottle and put it in the tank. At about $10 it's minor in the scheme of things. Just a suggestion /shrugs