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My 2014 Headlight Retrofit

11K views 41 replies 10 participants last post by  Intex Fiz M 
#1 · (Edited)
My labor of love is 95% complete. Mods to headlight done:

- Replaced halogen high beam with Mini H1 7.0 HID w/ Morimoto 35W ballasts and 4.3K bulbs and Morimoto relay kit. Wired to turn on with fog light switch, or high beams.

- Swapped stock fresnel lens with KDM OEM clear lens on main beam, spaced lens with one cardboard spacer for sharper cutoff line

- Installed KDM DRL module

- Custom wired in exLED 1533 amber LEDs into the positioning light area (supplemental turn signal)

- 1157 LED turn signal bulbs (already installed, but removed load resistor as the supplemental turn signal I added creates enough draw to negate need for it)

- Used SPDT relays to alternate the turn signal and DRL module during the day and turn off when headlights turn on

- Used Diode Dynamics S1 Switchback module for the positioning lights/supplemental turn signal at night

- Installed KDM white reflector for amber reflector (and removed amber running lights)

- Painted chrome gloss black, as well as most of the silver shroud

Some pics:







I have it wired for:

Daytime: DRLs turn on when positioning light is off. Turn signal causes DRLs to blink opposite the turn signal (using SPDT relay)

Nightime (when parking lights are turned on): DRLs turn off. Switchback module turns off positioning light during blinker operation. Fog light switch turns on/off Mini H1 low beam (and fog light). Highbeam works as usual, even flash to pass.

And videos in action:

Further away video: Camera was in low beam path and is essentially blinded when the low beams come on



Close-up video: At angle of one headlight



No output shots yet of the beams. Reason I am 95% done is I screwed up the height adjustment on one Mini H1 (aimed low), and have to re-open the headlight. Sigh. Needless to say these easily double stock output, while keeping the glare off other drivers. High beam is marvelous, way better than the stock halogen set-up.

This is my first time opening headlights - learned a lot and feel more confident doing this kind of mod. Learned tons about the headlight wiring in this vehicle too - know it backwards and forwards now.
 
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#6 ·
If i ever drive to FL again, I'll stop by and let you do mine. :)

Very well done!!!
Thanks guys!

Never have I been so aroused, and by a man no less! Those look amazing, and so deceptively "stock"! That's a top notch job.


Where in FL are you at? I'm near Orlando myself. I don't know how much you'd want to do that to a second set for my car, but I gotta at least ask!
I'm in Tampa, so real close. Don't know if I could survive another round - had to constantly balance time with the family. That's why this project took me over a year to complete (the move from DC to Tampa didn't help though).

I may entertain the idea though (after a nice break and finishing what I have left to do). I have an extra set of headlights right now that I could work up (that's how committed I was to getting this done). And I'm much more proficient now. Sourcing the KDM stuff cheaply is the issue to get the DRL module (could get that from a Canadian unit), white reflector and main beam clear lens (not on Canadian models).

Nicely done!
Thanks much!
 
#4 ·
Never have I been so aroused, and by a man no less! Those look amazing, and so deceptively "stock"! That's a top notch job.


Where in FL are you at? I'm near Orlando myself. I don't know how much you'd want to do that to a second set for my car, but I gotta at least ask!
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thanks!

Took some output shots. All these pics were taken with the exact same camera settings, so a valid comparison to output can be made. Camera is at f 2.0, 1/200 at ISO 80. These are all underexposed from what I see with my eye, but I think it gives a better view of beam pattern. And I'm too close, but I'm too lazy to try and find a wall with 50 feet of space to show a good beam shot.

Stock (before)

Notice blurry cutoff line from fresnel lens

----------------------------

Stock main beam only with clear lens and one spacer


Sharper for sure, but not perfect. Even so, brightness is the same.

---------------------------

The Quads


Can see my alignment issue here, driver side Mini H1 is too lowww and needs to be brought up. Have to re-open the headlight to do that. Ugh.


You can tell the sharpness difference in the stock and mini-H1 - mini is so much better. White balance is off in this pic, it's not that yellow.

------------------------

And finally, some overexposed shots at f2.0, 1/13 ISO 80. This better matches what I see with my eyes, but the center hotspots are definitely overexposed.

Main Beam


Quads


Highbeam


---------------------------

Once I get my alignment issues taken care of, I'll grab some road shots as well.

Other random observations/notes:

The stock beam has NO step in it (well, minuscule). I surmise this is due to the swiveling main beam to keep glare out of drivers eyes.

In the city, these quads are overkill. I'll primarily use the quad setup in dark areas.

There a good blue color band in both sets at the cutoff - I'm just too close to the garage to properly show it. The Mini's color band is bigger than the stock one.

Wish I had gotten some before pics of the stock high beam. The Mini H1 high beam is nuts, probably my favorite thing.
 
#10 · (Edited)
So I figured out my alignment issue. Turned out that the mini H1 was hitting the inside of the shroud. When I went to adjust it up, it broke the steel stick I used to secure the projector to the mount. Opened up the headlight, trimmed the inside of the shroud for clearance, aimed, and re-attached with steel stick.

Got some output pics on the road. Pics take at f 2.0, 1/6 sec, ISO 80

Stock HID with clear lens:

Quad: Stock and Mini H1 7.0
 
#12 ·
This is fantastic work! I am so jealous, and would also be interested in the cost to have you do a second set. What you made is everything I want. It looks amazing, and I am truly blown away.

I'll send you a PM, could do another set to your specifications.
 
#14 ·
I can PM you some details, but sourcing the KDM DRL, white reflector, and clear lens (all from KDM headlights) is not easy for a reasonable price. I got lucky with an eBay listing for the pair for $300. I have a homemade DRL I still need to work on that may work and be cheap.
 
#17 ·
#18 ·
The one upgrade I have completed is the Interior Map Dome Lamp Mood Light Module.

For the front and back. It require a good bit to trimming to accommodate the additional spacing required for the module. I also had to solider a couple resistors inline with the power supply to get the same brightness as the front console.
But it was definitely a good mod. BTW...KDM stands for? Is that a manufacturer..
 
#20 ·
Decided to update my headlights. Have had the parts for a while, but am now getting to it.

Going to:

- Paint everything SWP to match body color
- Add Diode Dynamics Swtichback Halos

Considering:
- Either adding home made LED bulb, or building a turn signal array

Since I have an extra set of parts (and then some), I can modify now without having to put the car out of commission.

Went ahead and stripped some paint off the shrouds. Funny that the chrome accent piece on the side of the headlight is both clear and grey when stripped of the chrome.



Drilled some holes in the shrouds so that I can attach the halos and run wires.

 
#22 ·
Got some painting done. I used Automotive Touchup SWP, but I varied my technique that I used from my fog light. This time, after using the adhesion promoter, I went straight to the basecoat (before I did a primer layer). I've seen mixed instructions on this topic, so I figured I'd try the faster way and see if I got similar results.

After layer of adhesion promoter:





Basecoat



I'm also painting the trim around the fog lights





Forgot to snap pics after the Midcoat (Pearl coat), but it looks the same in the shade anyway.

Final results










You can see I sprayed a little heavy here - so hard to get paint in all the crevices without causing this.



Overall, I'm extremely happy. To my eyes, came out the same as when I did the fog light. Pearl effect came out great. I have to do some touch-up to one piece (I touched it while spraying an adjacent piece and took a chunk of paint out). Time will tell if it holds up as well as my fog light has to date.

Will let these sit for a week before I touch them again - have to make sure the paint is completely dry and off-gassed before sealing them in the healdight, otherwise you can get a film on the inside of the headlight lens.
 
#23 ·
Slow progress, but I'm in no rush.

Got the Diode Dynamics HD Halos mounted and tested







I ended up scratching the paint job while installing - the 80mm halo on the high beam location is extermely tight, and there's really no way around scratching it. Next up is some touch up paint.

Also am going to attempt to replace the HID main bean with an LED projector. It's particularly challenging because the AFLS system makes it almost impossible. I have an idea to make it work, but we'll see.
 
#24 ·
I've been following the progress on aftermarket LED projectors. Morimoto has a new one called the MLED, and I actually bought a forerunner to it from Aliexpress before it came out, but was disappointed with it's performance and sold it (Diode Dynamics actually bought it from me). The MLED is expensive ($400), and is criticized for having a narrow beam pattern (but a large hotspot), good for distance lighting.

I've been watching Aliexpress for new LED projectors, and there's actually a LOT out there. This one below caught my eye, mainly because of the video they posted of it. Another reason I was interested in it is the mounting bracket system, really the screw holes on the side (more on that below).

Some shots of the LED projector I picked up, called the DLAND JSP ($162 shipped):







Size comparison - the projector on the left is called the Q5, an aftermarket HID projector very similar in size to the stock AFLS projector that I was trying to use to replace the stock AFLS projector.





If you didn't know, the AFLS HID projector is not the best performer. I've never been a fan of it, which is why I was trying to get the Q5 projector to fit.

Of course, I want to make sure the JSP projector performs. I compared it to the stock AFLS projector (with a brand new OSRAM D1S CBI bulb) and the Q5 projector with the same bulb. The results (pics speed and exposure locked for a valid comparison). I also used an app on my phone to measure light intensity at the hotspot.

Cadenza HID AFLS projector - 2100 Lux at hotspot



JSP Bi-LED projector - 3200 Lux at hotspot



Q5 HID Projector - 4200 lux at hotspot



While the Q5 has a "hotter" hotspot - I only got the 4200 in the extreme top at the step. The lux readings dropped quickly as you moved away from that spot. The JSP projector, on the other hand, maintained around 3000 lux in a large area. And the pics shows it - a very large hotspot. The pictures show why I'm not a fan of the stock projector tiny, low intensity hotspot.

I have more pics up at HID planet if anyone is interested:

https://www.hidplanet.com/forums/forum/general-discussion/leds/1449094-dland-jsp-bi-led-projector

More to come as I attempt to mount the JSP projector in the AFLS system.
 
#26 ·
It's possible. I haven't opened or seen the halogen projector headlights, but I'd guess that it's set up like the high beam halogen projector.

Chances are to do it, you'll need to fabricate an adapter bracket to mate the projector to the bracket in the headlight.

Another idea is to put an HID kit in the halogen projector. Check out this Retrofit Source video where they compared Halogen, LED, and HID bulbs in a halogen projector. If the Cadenza halogen projector performs like the one they tested, HID would offer a great and relatively easy upgrade.

https://youtu.be/0KbZBgrEk_w
 
#27 ·
Yooshaw, do you know the OEM dimensions on the halogen projectors and lense size? I know you have an HID setup was thinking they should be similar. Also do you know anyone who has drilled into our dust caps seems to be a difference between some models? My caps are finned like these but when I look up replacement dust caps for my 2015 I get these more like the flat back ones. Sorry for the bombardment of questions lol.
 
#28 ·
I have some Korean Non-AFLS HID projectors I can measure for you, as well as the AFLS version Both of those had very similar dimensions. I'm also willing to bet that the bracket holding that non-AFLS HID projector is the same as the Halogen projector version. I can grab some pics and dimensions for you tonight or tomorrow. The lens size is 3" (High beam projector is 2.5").

As your looking into this, I've learned that forward depth is important. I didn't pay attention to that when I installed the Mini H1 into the high beam spot. The length of the Mini H1 (forward) is longer that the halogen high beam, and that caused the Mini H1 to hit the front shroud. You'll want to make sure you try to match that forward depth, or, like I did, cut the inner part of the shroud with a dremel to allow more room.

The dust caps are the finned, flat ones. I've drilled mine on the high beam side with no issues. I've got extra dust caps - happy to send you some if you want them - cover shipping and their yours.
 
#30 ·
Personal preferences I suppose. The Cadenza AFLS HID projector is not the best in terms of performance (putting light down the road). Don't get me wrong, they perform well enough and the AFLS "bending lighting" is a nice feature.

Those with halogen projectors will see a huge benefit in either putting in an HID bulb (assuming it performs similarly to the TRS Youtube video I linked earlier), or retrofitting a real HID projector.

For me, I'm a lighting nut and want better performance - looks are secondary to putting usable light far down the road. And I like cutting edge technology, and LED projectors are finally getting close to matching the performance of HID projectors.
 
#35 ·
Stock Kia AFLS projector (in AFLS mount)






Projector out of the AFLS mount





Tear up the stock lens holder to create my own mount






Take those and JB Welb it to a cabinet corner bracket from Home Depot, trim areas for fitment



The side mounting mechanism of this projector is a reason I wanted it. Cornet brackets had to be trimmed for fitmet to allow swivel action






In position and mounted back in the stock AFLS mount










Testing range of motion with stock prjector



I think I need to do some trimming here, not quite matching the range of the stock set-up


I'm debating if I want to leave my Mini H1 in the high beam location, or try to stuff Q5's I have. Also have another set of led projectors on the way that I may put there too if they pan out.
 
#36 ·
More slow progress. Trimmed up the second AFLS mount and got the projector mounted.




Probably took me about 3 hours (off and on) of measuring/fitting/cutting/grinding/trimming

Now two:



Also got a start on trimming the high beam mount for the Q5 projector. Had to take out a good chunk in the center on both sides of the mount for clearance. Trimmed on left, stock on right.



Also had to cut down the mounting posts for depth clearance, then drill them out so a screw can go through. Going to use a bracket on 4 corners to mount (one test fitted below).



As far as I got today.
 
#38 · (Edited)
More slow progress, got one Q5 mounted to the high beam bracket:





Next to the halogen high beam



Looks like postimg.org changed their hosting address - so all my previous pics are broke. Is there a way to edit older posts, I can't figure it out.
 
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