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Trunk carpet lining removal

31K views 40 replies 16 participants last post by  Waveboarder7 
#1 ·
I'm interested in getting to the factory sub to wire in a Line Output Converter to send to a bass amp. Trouble is, I don't really understand the clips holding the upper trunk lining that hides that speaker. I pulled the rubber trunk seal to expose some lip hooks, but then the next row of clips don't just pop out. first one broke, I backed off at that point since I don't have all the parts for the rewire yet anyway, I was just familiarizing myself with the layout.


I'm guessing a narrow needle nose to compress the clip going into the metal is the way to go, but I would have figured this to be much simpler detach than that. Any advice is welcome!
 
#6 ·
Right, as in passenger side? I saw a thread here earlier talking about pink being the power on wire at that amp, what colors for one of the sub speaker outputs? I don't want to tap a door, I figure because of stereophonics it's best to tap an already mono output so I don't miss any of the signals...
 
#3 ·
I'm assuming we're talking about piece "4" in the attached picture? Looks like it has clips on the bottom, and plastic screws on the top. Those plastic screws on the outside have to be turned to release them. The middle screw looks like one of those that cab popped out.

Hard to tell from the pic though.
 

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#11 ·
Just noticed there are multiple orange wires on the amp. The numbers next to the Amp diagram denote the pinout location on the harness, and the F02-A, B, and C are different harness connectors (looks like there are three). The attached pics of the harness and pinouts should help you too. Best of luck!
 

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#13 ·
I was leaning towards this one being outputs, but since there are two of the, I'm really unsure. I got a peak at the woofer itself, it has two pairs of wires going into it but none of the colors match what I'm seeing at 12-25 and 13-26. Is this a dual voice coil sub? then does it matter which one I tap into?

 
#15 ·
I found the harness layout of the sub (top left corned of the attached pic). It correlates to the amp diagram though - 4 wires, colors match. If they don't match what you're seeing, I don't know what to tell you.
 

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#16 ·
Wire colors at the amp makes sense with the drawings, at least all the colors match what it says. What confuses me is that there are 4 wires (2 pairs) for sub, but only one sub, so I peeked at the speaker itself, can see through the breather holes, and could see two sets of wires at the speaker, but the didn't match colors at the amp. Is there a schematic of the sub speaker itself, maybe it shows a connector in-between that brings those wires over from the side.


I didn't pay particular close attention to the surround speakers in the back, but I could see their wires, and I have a recollection that they were the same color as the wires at the sub speaker. It was late, so I gave in to fatigue and figured it wasn't worth hosing something.


The good news is, my main power and amp control wires all made it to the back from battery and dash respectively, and Ground wire is attached/tested, along with the pink/black wire for the amp power on is tapped and tested. all I need to finalize this is the signal output!


I picked up a 4 gauge monster cable set from Amazon, wow was that sucka thick...I contemplated sending it back, but got too excited about making forward progress so I went with it. Getting it through the drivers side grommet was a synch, well, compared to firewall penetrations in the past anyway...
 
#17 ·
That connector pictured in my last post (top left corner) is the connecter at the sub. The colors are identical to the wire diagram. Noticed that the picture doesn't show right on my computer (mostly black for some reason). If you click the picture again, it shows right in it's own window.

I don't know for sure why it has 4 wires going to it. My only wild guess is that I've seen the wiring diagrams from the head unit, and the navigation voice seems to have it's own dedicated output separate from the stereo, maybe it's related :confused:

Oh and I may ask for help if I can't figure out how to get through the firewall, have my own project that I'm wiring up
 
#18 ·
Well it's all done. one word...Dayumn the stereo sounds good now! turned the crossover for the sub down to about 180 hz instead of 200 where it was on the old car. A lot more clean then before, and the stock stereo get's all the upper lows just fine. Alex Skolnick Trio never sounded so good!


I went with the LOC on the rear door speaker wires as one of the previous threads discussed, troubleshooting which stock sub wires to tap was too much to hassle, so I got right/left into the LOC (forgot it took stereo signals) and everything went smooth as pudding. All total maybe a 4 or 5 hour job. But I'm no pro, I just do this in movies.


Wanted to thank you again for all the diagrams and input, without that this would have been impossible!
 
#39 · (Edited)
Well it's all done. one word...Dayumn the stereo sounds good now! turned the crossover for the sub down to about 180 hz instead of 200 where it was on the old car. A lot more clean then before, and the stock stereo get's all the upper lows just fine. Alex Skolnick Trio never sounded so good!


I went with the LOC on the rear door speaker wires as one of the previous threads discussed, troubleshooting which stock sub wires to tap was too much to hassle, so I got right/left into the LOC (forgot it took stereo signals) and everything went smooth as pudding. All total maybe a 4 or 5 hour job. But I'm no pro, I just do this in movies.


Wanted to thank you again for all the diagrams and input, without that this would have been impossible!
Hey MadMax,

Thanks for all the info, I'm at the point where you were where I'm not to sure about the signal. If I'm understanding you right, you tapped into one of the rear door speakers on the middle harness? Please see attached screenshot. Thanks!

EDIT: Went with those wires for signal, works like a dream. Thanks for the help everyone!
 

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#21 ·
Gotta get more of them off my girlfriends phone. They didn't all send to my email when I was done.

Start at the engine bay. Connect your amp wire to the battery with your method of choice. I had a clip to put it on with a fuse. Run this back by your transmission computer. unplug that to get more room but long story short, you're going into the cabin through the wire bundle underneath the steering column. You can go in the drivers floor board and pull it out to gain access to the engine bay, then just shove the wire through.

Now put your wire for the remote. I used the windshield wipers fuse.


Next, remove the Cadenza scuff plates on the driver's side. Start at the rear of the scuff plate and work your way forward. You'll need to give it a good tug. Don't Hulk smash it but don't be a wimp. These are the clips:


Work your way through to the rear. You'll need to pull the B-Pillar plastics as well where the seat belts are. You'll want to run on the wire on the INSIDE of the seat belt otherwise it will slide out of the plastic.

Remove the rear plastic carefully. You'll pull on it like the others but you'll have to remove the backseat to expose a screw.


Run your wires under that scuff plate and shove them under the rear seat.




Go to the trunk and find your cables. Pull them through.


There are clips on the trunk linker you need to remove. Passenger rear side is the one that hides the amp. Pull the weather strip and lift upwards. It'll make sense when you read it.


Amp is shown here. It's the bottom plug with less wires. Looking at it pointing forward I believe it was the top right and bottom right. Someone please confirm! Not 100% sure.
 
#28 ·
I have been scouring the internet for answers on the speaker sizes in the 2014 cadenza but google has failed me. Does anybody have a list of the sizes of the 12 speakers? I am thinking of buying a DSP from arc audio and replacing all the speakers as well with higher quality ones.
 
#31 ·
@MadMax and others familiar with this process of adding an aftermarket sub/amp to our beloved Cadenza...

Talked with a local, highly rated, car audio place yesterday. They claim to have done Cadenza's - but what they are telling me contradicts what is said in this thread, and what is advised by Crutchfield.

Essentially, I went into the discussions with this installer with the idea that an LC2i (two channel line output converter) would be necessary, tapping the rear speaker output from the rear-mounted amp. (Per discussions in this thread.)

Instead, the installer is saying that he would rather tap the pre-amp "sub out" from the head unit, thus eliminating the need for a LOC. However, based on these diagrams, it seems that the crossover and amplification happens in the rear, so the only pre-amp signal is coming from the head unit to the rear amp/crossover, which is doing all the distribution.

1) Would tapping the pre-amp input to the amp/crossover cause any issues with impedance or any of the other DSP magic?
2) If the new Alpine amp takes a line-level input, would it still be better/cleaner to have a LOC convert it back down to pre-amp signal, then feed it to the new amp?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Hoping to have all of this done tomorrow morning...

(BTW - the setup is Alpine S-A60M S-Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms plus either a 10" Massive Audio GTX102 or 12" Massive Audio GTX122 sub in an enclosure.)
 
#36 ·
Out of curiosity, how did you know that the door signal stops at 50 hz? I know the speaker likely doesn't go that low, but I'd think the wire would have the full range top to bottom. my mono amp has a built in adjustable crossover, so I can go as high as i think 500hz and down to either 40 or 20 for a top end cutoff, and I've pushed it all the way down before and still had plenty of low bass in the speaker. Note this is all just with gear, no testing equipment, so I had to guess that I was doing OK. If you don't have a crossover on the amp, it's possible you were getting too much high from the door, so switching to the woofer gave you the lower bass by default. That said, I'm only guessing here, would love to know more if you or anyone else has insight.
 
#37 ·
My amp does have crossovers, I could just never get it to play anything below 45-50hz when I was connected to the rear door. Even if I used a time generator app on my phone, the signal would cut out and the subwoofer wouldn’t even try, no matter the volume. Switching to the subwoofer output has definitely increased my low-end response. Maybe it’s just something with the setup I have.
 
#41 ·
To anyone who’s wondering how to completely remove the inner trunk lining from the car, you have to remove the screws and tree clips from the trunk lining and scuff plate in the trunk. And then you have to remove the back cushion of the back seat to reveal 6 screws holding the lining in. There’s also 5 hooks under the rubber trunk seal. Good luck trying not to break the upper lining clips!
 
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