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Gotta get more of them off my girlfriends phone. They didn't all send to my email when I was done.

Start at the engine bay. Connect your amp wire to the battery with your method of choice. I had a clip to put it on with a fuse. Run this back by your transmission computer. unplug that to get more room but long story short, you're going into the cabin through the wire bundle underneath the steering column. You can go in the drivers floor board and pull it out to gain access to the engine bay, then just shove the wire through.

Now put your wire for the remote. I used the windshield wipers fuse.


Next, remove the Cadenza scuff plates on the driver's side. Start at the rear of the scuff plate and work your way forward. You'll need to give it a good tug. Don't Hulk smash it but don't be a wimp. These are the clips:


Work your way through to the rear. You'll need to pull the B-Pillar plastics as well where the seat belts are. You'll want to run on the wire on the INSIDE of the seat belt otherwise it will slide out of the plastic.

Remove the rear plastic carefully. You'll pull on it like the others but you'll have to remove the backseat to expose a screw.


Run your wires under that scuff plate and shove them under the rear seat.




Go to the trunk and find your cables. Pull them through.


There are clips on the trunk linker you need to remove. Passenger rear side is the one that hides the amp. Pull the weather strip and lift upwards. It'll make sense when you read it.


Amp is shown here. It's the bottom plug with less wires. Looking at it pointing forward I believe it was the top right and bottom right. Someone please confirm! Not 100% sure.
 

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Gotta get more of them off my girlfriends phone. They didn't all send to my email when I was done.

Start at the engine bay. Connect your amp wire to the battery with your method of choice. I had a clip to put it on with a fuse. Run this back by your transmission computer. unplug that to get more room but long story short, you're going into the cabin through the wire bundle underneath the steering column. You can go in the drivers floor board and pull it out to gain access to the engine bay, then just shove the wire through.

Now put your wire for the remote. I used the windshield wipers fuse.


Next, remove the Cadenza scuff plates on the driver's side. Start at the rear of the scuff plate and work your way forward. You'll need to give it a good tug. Don't Hulk smash it but don't be a wimp. These are the clips:


Work your way through to the rear. You'll need to pull the B-Pillar plastics as well where the seat belts are. You'll want to run on the wire on the INSIDE of the seat belt otherwise it will slide out of the plastic.

Remove the rear plastic carefully. You'll pull on it like the others but you'll have to remove the backseat to expose a screw.


Run your wires under that scuff plate and shove them under the rear seat.




Go to the trunk and find your cables. Pull them through.


There are clips on the trunk linker you need to remove. Passenger rear side is the one that hides the amp. Pull the weather strip and lift upwards. It'll make sense when you read it.


Amp is shown here. It's the bottom plug with less wires. Looking at it pointing forward I believe it was the top right and bottom right. Someone please confirm! Not 100% sure.
Thanks, man! That is a big help.
 

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On the FO2-A AMP Diagram its pin 7 P/B. I verified it with the car off 0 volts and with the car on acc 12 to 13 volts and running 13 to 14 volts. So yes its a 16 gauge cable most pink with a black stripe for remote. I'll be grabbing hi-low next.
 

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I broke all of my clips when I installed my sub... had my dealer order me new ones. Cost me $32... in case you need them.
 

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I have been scouring the internet for answers on the speaker sizes in the 2014 cadenza but google has failed me. Does anybody have a list of the sizes of the 12 speakers? I am thinking of buying a DSP from arc audio and replacing all the speakers as well with higher quality ones.
 

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I jusr re-read this post and noticed in the diagram that on the connector pins 18-19 are SPDIF in/out, has anyone tested this connection for a viable audio signal?

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I was leaning towards this one being outputs, but since there are two of the, I'm really unsure. I got a peak at the woofer itself, it has two pairs of wires going into it but none of the colors match what I'm seeing at 12-25 and 13-26. Is this a dual voice coil sub? then does it matter which one I tap into?

 

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Anyone know of a install shop that can do this in the Dallas area? 4-5 hours seems like no fun to me...but I need some more bump in the trunk.
 

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@MadMax and others familiar with this process of adding an aftermarket sub/amp to our beloved Cadenza...

Talked with a local, highly rated, car audio place yesterday. They claim to have done Cadenza's - but what they are telling me contradicts what is said in this thread, and what is advised by Crutchfield.

Essentially, I went into the discussions with this installer with the idea that an LC2i (two channel line output converter) would be necessary, tapping the rear speaker output from the rear-mounted amp. (Per discussions in this thread.)

Instead, the installer is saying that he would rather tap the pre-amp "sub out" from the head unit, thus eliminating the need for a LOC. However, based on these diagrams, it seems that the crossover and amplification happens in the rear, so the only pre-amp signal is coming from the head unit to the rear amp/crossover, which is doing all the distribution.

1) Would tapping the pre-amp input to the amp/crossover cause any issues with impedance or any of the other DSP magic?
2) If the new Alpine amp takes a line-level input, would it still be better/cleaner to have a LOC convert it back down to pre-amp signal, then feed it to the new amp?

Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Hoping to have all of this done tomorrow morning...

(BTW - the setup is Alpine S-A60M S-Series mono subwoofer amplifier — 600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms plus either a 10" Massive Audio GTX102 or 12" Massive Audio GTX122 sub in an enclosure.)
 

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honestly, I know this is bad, but I legit just tapped into the post-amp stock subwoofer signal. the rear door channels cut off around 50hz and I hated that. hasn’t cause me a problem yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
honestly, I know this is bad, but I legit just tapped into the post-amp stock subwoofer signal. the rear door channels cut off around 50hz and I hated that. hasn’t cause me a problem yet.

Where did you tap in on that by the woofer speaker or by the amp, and what color wires?
 

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Where did you tap in on that by the woofer speaker or by the amp, and what color wires?
I pulled the signal right out of the amp. I actually still have the stock sub connected, i’m using it for upper frequencies only, and the extra sub is tuned for low only. I can’t remember the wires off the top of my head, i’ll check when I get home. If I remember correctly there was a green and a brown? I’ll get back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Out of curiosity, how did you know that the door signal stops at 50 hz? I know the speaker likely doesn't go that low, but I'd think the wire would have the full range top to bottom. my mono amp has a built in adjustable crossover, so I can go as high as i think 500hz and down to either 40 or 20 for a top end cutoff, and I've pushed it all the way down before and still had plenty of low bass in the speaker. Note this is all just with gear, no testing equipment, so I had to guess that I was doing OK. If you don't have a crossover on the amp, it's possible you were getting too much high from the door, so switching to the woofer gave you the lower bass by default. That said, I'm only guessing here, would love to know more if you or anyone else has insight.
 

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Out of curiosity, how did you know that the door signal stops at 50 hz? I know the speaker likely doesn't go that low, but I'd think the wire would have the full range top to bottom. my mono amp has a built in adjustable crossover, so I can go as high as i think 500hz and down to either 40 or 20 for a top end cutoff, and I've pushed it all the way down before and still had plenty of low bass in the speaker. Note this is all just with gear, no testing equipment, so I had to guess that I was doing OK. If you don't have a crossover on the amp, it's possible you were getting too much high from the door, so switching to the woofer gave you the lower bass by default. That said, I'm only guessing here, would love to know more if you or anyone else has insight.
My amp does have crossovers, I could just never get it to play anything below 45-50hz when I was connected to the rear door. Even if I used a time generator app on my phone, the signal would cut out and the subwoofer wouldn’t even try, no matter the volume. Switching to the subwoofer output has definitely increased my low-end response. Maybe it’s just something with the setup I have.
 

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My amp does have crossovers, I could just never get it to play anything below 45-50hz when I was connected to the rear door. Even if I used a time generator app on my phone, the signal would cut out and the subwoofer wouldn’t even try, no matter the volume. Switching to the subwoofer output has definitely increased my low-end response. Maybe it’s just something with the setup I have.
I know it's been a while since y'all were discussing this, but did you ever go back and find what wires you tapped from the amp? I'm doing a sub install this weekend as soon as I can get out to pick up some positaps and it would be great to know the winning formula ahead of time haha. I remember reading that there's a pink/brown wire people use for remote to the amp, is this correct? Thanks!
 
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