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Discussion Starter #1
Items you'll need:

-Switchback LEDs (I got mine from superbrightleds.com)
-Load resistors (also got from superbright)
-Wire
-Soldering Iron and Solder
-Wire strippers
-Shrink Wrap and/or Electrical Tape
-Patience

First off, I had already converted my Fog Lights to DRLs according to this thread http://www.cadenzaforum.com/forum/how-forum/3817-how-wire-fog-lights-drls-sxl.html

I had purchased 1157 switchbacks some time ago, but when I tried to initially install, the white lights would not work (turn signal worked fine when you install load resistors). I discovered that the Cadenza wires the turn signal light internally to the headlight housing. This means you can fully pull out the bulb and there are no wires attached to it. All connections are made inside the headlight housing.

The US spec Cadenza does not provide the wiring inside the housing to power the extra filament on the 1157. Today I thought, why not run my own wire to the right connection on the bulb assembly? To find out which connection was the right one, I powered each connection to see what color the bulb would turn. The middle connection is ground. Sure enough, the right hand side connection is the "white" light.

I then bent back the connection so as to solder on a wire:



You can see two of the connections in this pic. Notice the blue dot - this indicates that is the top of the bulb assembly. In this pic, the right hand side is the "white" power, and the middle is ground. Out of the picture, and to the left of the ground, is the amber turn signal connection.

My thought was to bend back this right hand connection, solder on the wire, and bend it back into position:


Here you can see I bent it back. I then soldered on the wire. This did not work! The soldering made it to large and it got wedged tightly back in the headlight. When I managed to pull it back out of the headlight, it had bent back the other direction, and essentially broke off. On this one, I ended up breaking off some plastic that was underneath the broken piece to get access to the metal again, and then soldered it:


This worked! As you can see in the pic, my only concern is that the wire comes through the rubber seal. Thankfully the turn signal is isolated from the rest of the headlight, so if moisture develops, it will only be in the turn signal area. I will keep my eye on that area to see if any moisture builds up in there. The seal is very soft, so I am hoping it can still seal.

For the driver side, the connections are upside down. On this one, use the side without the blue dot. The right hand side one is the "white" power. I ended up soldering the wire directly on top of the connector (rather than bending it back. Maybe I did a better soldering job, as this worked.

I then tapped each wire into the DRL wires I had already run for the fog lights. Now these lights function like DRLs, and turn on with the car (so do the fog lights).

If you do this, I recommend you verify each connection before connecting the wire. I did this by powering the bulb assembly outside the car. If anyone needs instruction on how to wire the load resistors, I can help there too.

See video below.

Youtube Link: Cadenza Switchbacks - YouTube

I'm pleased with the results.
 

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Glad you tried an alternative to the fog lights for DRLs. Excellent write up! Thanks for sharing with us.
 

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This is a great DIY and thank you very much for posting this so other members can also do this installation.

However I will say that the switchbacks in the pictures are low-quality from china & do not put out much brightness as far as lumens whatsoever.

We carry standard LED switchbacks as well as high-powered LED switchbacks on our site. Both of which will be much brighter than the ones you have in the pictures.

Also by checking out your video it would appear that you're using type 1 switchbacks which differentiate between white/yellow, white/yellow, white/yellow while they're flashing. The type 2 version that we carry below are more like OEM, where the bulb will be white until the turn signal is activated, and then it will blink yellow/off yellow/off yellow/off until you turn it off, and then it switches back to white.

You can see them both below:

K5 Optima Store - New LED Dual Color Switchback Turn Signal Bulbs (1 Pair)

K5 Optima Store - exLED 1157 Power LED Switchbacks



 

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Discussion Starter #4
This is a great DIY and thank you very much for posting this so other members can also do this installation.

However I will say that the switchbacks in the pictures are low-quality from china & do not put out much brightness as far as lumens whatsoever.

We carry standard LED switchbacks as well as high-powered LED switchbacks on our site. Both of which will be much brighter than the ones you have in the pictures.

Also by checking out your video it would appear that you're using type 1 switchbacks which differentiate between white/yellow, white/yellow, white/yellow while they're flashing. The type 2 version that we carry below are more like OEM, where the bulb will be white until the turn signal is activated, and then it will blink yellow/off yellow/off yellow/off until you turn it off, and then it switches back to white.

You can see them both below:

K5 Optima Store - New LED Dual Color Switchback Turn Signal Bulbs (1 Pair)

K5 Optima Store - exLED 1157 Power LED Switchbacks



Agree that the light output of these units is not as bright as the stock incandescent bulbs. Do you have a comparison between your normal switchback and the exLED module? I am interested in brightness- do you know how many lumens each put out?
 

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Agree that the light output of these units is not as bright as the stock incandescent bulbs. Do you have a comparison between your normal switchback and the exLED module? I am interested in brightness- do you know how many lumens each put out?
Unfortunately I do not have a comparison between the two of them. However on the Optima Forums a member did compare the both of them, and while the exLED power LED bulbs are much brighter outside of the housing, once installed on the vehicle, they are not that much brighter than our standard LED switchback bulbs that we carry. I'm sorry I do not.
 

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Do your hi output switchback bulbs cause hyper flashing?
Actually all switchbacks that are available will cause hyper flashing without the use of load resistors or without replacing the flasher module, which is not possible on the Cadenza or Optima. :(

We do include the option for load resistors on the site when ordering.
 

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question on the resistors

Items you'll need:

-Switchback LEDs (I got mine from superbrightleds.com)
-Load resistors (also got from superbright)
-Wire
-Soldering Iron and Solder
-Wire strippers
-Shrink Wrap and/or Electrical Tape
-Patience

First off, I had already converted my Fog Lights to DRLs according to this thread http://www.cadenzaforum.com/forum/how-forum/3817-how-wire-fog-lights-drls-sxl.html

I had purchased 1157 switchbacks some time ago, but when I tried to initially install, the white lights would not work (turn signal worked fine when you install load resistors). I discovered that the Cadenza wires the turn signal light internally to the headlight housing. This means you can fully pull out the bulb and there are no wires attached to it. All connections are made inside the headlight housing.

The US spec Cadenza does not provide the wiring inside the housing to power the extra filament on the 1157. Today I thought, why not run my own wire to the right connection on the bulb assembly? To find out which connection was the right one, I powered each connection to see what color the bulb would turn. The middle connection is ground. Sure enough, the right hand side connection is the "white" light.

I then bent back the connection so as to solder on a wire:



You can see two of the connections in this pic. Notice the blue dot - this indicates that is the top of the bulb assembly. In this pic, the right hand side is the "white" power, and the middle is ground. Out of the picture, and to the left of the ground, is the amber turn signal connection.

My thought was to bend back this right hand connection, solder on the wire, and bend it back into position:


Here you can see I bent it back. I then soldered on the wire. This did not work! The soldering made it to large and it got wedged tightly back in the headlight. When I managed to pull it back out of the headlight, it had bent back the other direction, and essentially broke off. On this one, I ended up breaking off some plastic that was underneath the broken piece to get access to the metal again, and then soldered it:


This worked! As you can see in the pic, my only concern is that the wire comes through the rubber seal. Thankfully the turn signal is isolated from the rest of the headlight, so if moisture develops, it will only be in the turn signal area. I will keep my eye on that area to see if any moisture builds up in there. The seal is very soft, so I am hoping it can still seal.

For the driver side, the connections are upside down. On this one, use the side without the blue dot. The right hand side one is the "white" power. I ended up soldering the wire directly on top of the connector (rather than bending it back. Maybe I did a better soldering job, as this worked.

I then tapped each wire into the DRL wires I had already run for the fog lights. Now these lights function like DRLs, and turn on with the car (so do the fog lights).

If you do this, I recommend you verify each connection before connecting the wire. I did this by powering the bulb assembly outside the car. If anyone needs instruction on how to wire the load resistors, I can help there too.

See video below.

Youtube Link: Cadenza Switchbacks - YouTube

I'm pleased with the results.

Im doing this install this weekend on my fogs and turn signals but where or how did you install the resistors to work once you tapped into the fogs
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Im doing this install this weekend on my fogs and turn signals but where or how did you install the resistors to work once you tapped into the fogs
You can splice it it anywhere on the turn signal wire. I intercepted it right before the headlight harness connector. Spliced one side to a wire on the resistor, and the other wire goes to ground(anywhere you can find). I found some bolts on the body that worked great. Good luck!
 

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so are these your blinkers or fogs? I guess I don't understand needing the switchbacks from white(on) ro amber(blinker)

I got some Plasma LED Blinkers from Putco and they are friggin awesome.
Those are for his turn signal bulbs. We will be introducing a brand new 80 watt CREE 1156 bulb in amber and red on our site later this week. Guaranteed to be the brightest bulb in it's size.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
so are these your blinkers or fogs? I guess I don't understand needing the switchbacks from white(on) ro amber(blinker)

I got some Plasma LED Blinkers from Putco and they are friggin awesome.
They act more like a DRL - on all the time to help other cars see me. Then act as blinkers.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Those are for his turn signal bulbs. We will be introducing a brand new 80 watt CREE 1156 bulb in amber and red on our site later this week. Guaranteed to be the brightest bulb in it's size.
Sounds great! 1156 won't work for the front turn bulb, but will work in the rear. Will these have the load resistors built in?
 

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Sounds great! 1156 won't work for the front turn bulb, but will work in the rear. Will these have the load resistors built in?
We actually carry the Error/Resistor Free Bulbs on our site now. However they are being discontinued for these new bulbs I am referring too. The Error Free ones get too hot since the resistors are built inside of them. They also are not very bright at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
We actually carry the Error/Resistor Free Bulbs on our site now. However they are being discontinued for these new bulbs I am referring too. The Error Free ones get too hot since the resistors are built inside of them. They also are not very bright at all.
I have you error free ones now - looking forward to your new ones. I also just ordered your switchbacks - decided I wanted the Type 2 switchbacks vs the Type 1s I have.
 
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