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Discussion Starter #1
I saw that one user had added an additional subwoofer, but has anyone looked into upgrading the existing one in the factory location? I would like to save all of my trunk space, and would not mind adding a bigger amp for a better sub, as long as the sub fit in the stock location.
 

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It will not sound great if u put an aftermarket woofer in that factory location. Bc if u do not have a box then u r basically playing it free aired. A lot of frequencys the woofer plays requires a box. I would put it in the same location but build a box around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That would be acceptable, as long as it was clean, did not take up much room, and obviously, improved sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is there not a box or enclosure around the factory sub? Also, some subwoofers are designed to work free air, are they not? I dont need earth shaking bass (although I wouldnt mind it, had it in all previous vehicles) but want at least some punch to the low end.
 

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I believe that the amount of work it would take to design a mini enclosure and refabricate the carpeting would be costly, time consuming, and you'd still end up with a sound less then desirable. I have a 12 in sub in an enclosure that's just over 1.8 cubic feet, ideal for the particular sub I purchases, and it sounds amazing without taking that much of the trunk out. If you went with a quality 10 inch dual VC 2ohm sub, at least a 600 watt amp at that resistance, with a box like this, you'd be amazed by the sound, and still have even more of the trunk than my setup...my setup is about 20 inches wide, so you'd come in 5 inches narrower...


D13.5 X W14.5 X H 13.75


Sound Ordnance™ Bass Bunker Ported single 10" subwoofer enclosure (Model BB10-75V) at Crutchfield.com
 

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I say 2ohm dual VC, but what you do is wire the coils up so it turns into 4 ohm...bridged I think it's called...best output from most of your typical amps will be 4 ohm. Not many amps can run at 2ohm continuously without either stressing it out, or breaking the bank, so that's why I suggested that arrangement. Of course there are many other options you can go with, so if you're starting from scratch do the research, you can come up with a nice thump!
 

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Lol i do car audio for a living. The factory sub does not have an enclosure. Best thing is to buy a dual 2 woofer and parallel it down to 1 ohm. Many amps can do 1 ohm. Shoot half the amps i use can do .5 ohm lol but u need to have proper electrical. Let me get with David from the k5optimastore and talk to him
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate it. Hopefully we can find a solution that works for me.
 

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If you don't want much, don't do a bunch.

I got a cheap 10" from Autozone (was just temporary at first as I had two12's at home I needed to find an amp for). But once I got it installed and listened to it, it's enough for me. It takes up about 7-8" from the rear seat and about a foot wide. It's fairly small and angled to fit the seat. Only cost me around $80.

It's nothing crazy. But I have my daughter in the car so I can only do so much, but it did wonders for the low ends of the stereo.
 

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If you don't want much, don't do a bunch.

I got a cheap 10" from Autozone (was just temporary at first as I had two12's at home I needed to find an amp for). But once I got it installed and listened to it, it's enough for me. It takes up about 7-8" from the rear seat and about a foot wide. It's fairly small and angled to fit the seat. Only cost me around $80.

It's nothing crazy. But I have my daughter in the car so I can only do so much, but it did wonders for the low ends of the stereo.
Sorry, replying to an old post :)

Do you still have the same setup? Just looking at upgrading the bass a little in my 2014. I don't care for LOUDER, just deeper...
 

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Sorry, replying to an old post :)

Do you still have the same setup? Just looking at upgrading the bass a little in my 2014. I don't care for LOUDER, just deeper...
Ragg hasn't logged in in 4 months... probably won't see this... if you add a 10" in a ported box into the trunk you'll definitely get some deeper notes
 

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I added a lower grade Alpine 10" sub to a sealed box with RMS400W mono and it is 85% satisfying. I'm use to some series subs so this single 10" fills the car with enough boom to make the music more appealing to the ears.

If i had to do it again (soon) I will stay with 10" but get a DVC with a thicker magnet and swap my amp for a 600w RMS mono and that will be plenty for me. I dont need to rock out like I am 20years old again.
 

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Sorry. Been busy. Yes. Same setup. Still works fine lol
 

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Ok so this was another post on my mind for about a year....seeing NOBODY attempted to upgrade the stock sub (actually entire rear deck)...I did it today!

Remove back seat
remove as much rear deck screws and pop rivets as possible - NOTE you cannot remove the entire rear deck unless you remove the cieling carpeting from the trunk (because there are screws under it that go up into deck) - the catch--the carpeting is one time riveted in trunk..

Sooo I just pushed up as far as possible, threw a towel under it and it gave enough room to remove speakers...the rear screw on the sub is a BIT*H!!!!

The 4" speakers I simply unplugged from the harness, cut off the stock speakers and soldered onto the 4" JBL Club 4020's I used for upgrade, then bolted back into OEM bolt holes (there are only 2 bolts in the car that hold the 4" speakers in)

FUN FACT - ALL OEM speakers except for the sub are JBL (sub is only infinity in rear lol)- as we know the OEM AMP is a JBL 500W

The sub on the other hand.....I bought a MB QUART DS1-204 (shallow mount 8") as I had no clue how deep the stock sub is and can now confirm a standard 8" will fix and I will be upgrading in the next month/

There are 2 plastic rings that hold the sub in is a sandwiched configuration, in order to make you aftermarket work you use the bottom plastic plate (bottom slice of the sandwich) and screw your new sub too it, now the stock sub is 4ohm so you just need to uplug stock harness, cut off at speaker on both sides the simply plug into the spring terminal connectors on new sub and mount, plug in and boom!

Sound;

Well the upgraded 4's definitely add the clarity you want, these were never bass speakers, just the mid and uppers to the sub- the JBL 4020's MUCH improve clarity no doubt

The SUB...the MB QUART is more crisp, has a more substantial hit but not the thud the stocker has, this is indeed because it a shallow mount sub and once upgraded to the deep dish that is the stocker it'll definitely out bass the OEM sub (which is you typical crap paper sub BTW).

All around much better sound, all this with stock amp, I'm not looking for crazy bass so for me it's perfect, I just want a clear, crisp, punchy system that makes people smile when not expected in a stock looking system.

I'll take some pics when I upgrade the shallow mount to regular...surprised that rear hole is that DEEP (insert "that's what she said")

Thank guys!,,,,,,,CHAPO OUT!
 

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As much as I'd love a bit more oomph in my system, no way in **** will I go through all that to do it LOL. Glad there are people like you in the world that will though. I love our system and think it sounds great, nice and clear, just a bit on the weaker side for base. Overall I find it to be a nice reproduction system in a stock car.
 

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Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate it. Hopefully we can find a solution that works for me.
I have a 2015 and I just replaced all the door speakers and the center channel, but the bass was still lacking so I added a 10" dual 2 ohm NVX sub in a sealed box that's about 1 cu. ft. The sub handles 750 watts rms and I have a Kicker amp that pushes 800 watts x 1 @ 1 ohm and it sounds AMAZING!!! I also just took a trip with 2 friends and we had plenty of space for our bags.
7595
7596
 

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Wow, looked it up, $250 amp that does 1 ohm to 800 watts? Even if it's only outputting 2/3s of that, that's still pretty good. Does it heat up and cut off over extended play? I will say, I've found those dual coils to be much more efficient but you can't skimp on the speaker, cheaper ones only last a couple years. I have had the same JL audio amp for a good long time. into 2 ohms it will do 600 watt. I went with dual coil 4 ohm speaker and wired it for 2 ohm likely the same thing you're doing but to get it down to 1 ohm that's sick.
 

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Wow, looked it up, $250 amp that does 1 ohm to 800 watts? Even if it's only outputting 2/3s of that, that's still pretty good. Does it heat up and cut off over extended play? I will say, I've found those dual coils to be much more efficient but you can't skimp on the speaker, cheaper ones only last a couple years. I have had the same JL audio amp for a good long time. into 2 ohms it will do 600 watt. I went with dual coil 4 ohm speaker and wired it for 2 ohm likely the same thing you're doing but to get it down to 1 ohm that's sick.
Well, the 2 times I've wired it down to 1 ohm...the subs can't handle it. The amp bithsheeted at 888 watts RMS. Right now, I've got a Massive Audio dual 4 ohm voice coil sub rated at 700 watts wired down to 2 ohms and it's hitting pretty hard. I still need to upgrade the LOC so I can address the bass rolloff issue.
 

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Wow, looked it up, $250 amp that does 1 ohm to 800 watts? Even if it's only outputting 2/3s of that, that's still pretty good. Does it heat up and cut off over extended play? I will say, I've found those dual coils to be much more efficient but you can't skimp on the speaker, cheaper ones only last a couple years. I have had the same JL audio amp for a good long time. into 2 ohms it will do 600 watt. I went with dual coil 4 ohm speaker and wired it for 2 ohm likely the same thing you're doing but to get it down to 1 ohm that's sick.
To answer your question, took a 3 hour trip to Philly played music the whole way there and back and the amp hasn't cut off once. Kicker is one of the last standing companies still making quality products. I have a Phoenix Gold Xenon amp I bought back in 06. It's supposed to be 600 watts, but I found out it's pushing almost 900 watts RMS @ 1/2 or 4 old. I would use it now, but it's a class A/B amp and it's larger than I really want.
 

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Kicker is one of the last standing companies still making quality products...supposed to be 600 watts, but I found out it's pushing almost 900 watts RMS.
I completely agree. I have an "old style" Kicker amp (maybe 10 years old) that is rated @ 1000W bridged. The test sheet said it benched well over 1200W RMS! Nothing like those good old amps! Like you, it's way too big (power and physical size) to be used in my car...but it might find it's way onto another boat where it's free to push extremely hard!
 
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