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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone, I've seen that there are plenty of threads on here concerning sub installs but in my reading I haven't been able to find any direct answers to what wires people tap in to, how to remove the trim, and so on. I've only just gotten my sub to finally work and I wanted to share my findings. I plan to make further edits to this post as I go along actually cleaning up the install, but for now here's how to make it work.

Also, I'd like to give a quick shoutout to @MadMax and everyone in the "Trunk carpet lining removal" thread. Definitely wouldn't have been able to get as far as I did without the info in there.

Trunk Wiring:
In the trunk, you need to wire 3 things: ground, remote, and signal.

For ground, I went to the cargo net hook centered on either side of the trunk. I sanded it down with a wire brush attachment on a drill and then just slipped the terminal connector from my ground wire under the nut.

For remote, I tapped into the first harness (the big one, 26 pin). The wire was pink with a black stripe (see below).

7613


For signal, I tapped into the second harness (the one in the middle, 12 pin). The wires were white and pink (see below).

7614
 

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if I might make a suggestion. I previously had my subwoofer connected to the rear door speakers. however I have found that my head unit (2014) limits the frequencies as you get lower to the rear speakers. because of this, I decided to tap into the subwoofer +/- on the previous connector. I found that I was able to reproduce significantly lower frequencies this way. food for thought!
 

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Hey everyone, I've seen that there are plenty of threads on here concerning sub installs but in my reading I haven't been able to find any direct answers to what wires people tap in to, how to remove the trim, and so on. I've only just gotten my sub to finally work and I wanted to share my findings. I plan to make further edits to this post as I go along actually cleaning up the install, but for now here's how to make it work.

Also, I'd like to give a quick shoutout to @MadMax and everyone in the "Trunk carpet lining removal" thread. Definitely wouldn't have been able to get as far as I did without the info in there.

Trunk Wiring:
In the trunk, you need to wire 3 things: ground, remote, and signal.

For ground, I went to the cargo net hook centered on either side of the trunk. I sanded it down with a wire brush attachment on a drill and then just slipped the terminal connector from my ground wire under the nut.

For remote, I tapped into the first harness (the big one, 26 pin). The wire was pink with a black stripe (see below).

View attachment 7613

For signal, I tapped into the second harness (the one in the middle, 12 pin). The wires were white and pink (see below).

View attachment 7614
I tapped into the factory subwoofer for my install...
7640
7641
7642
7643
 

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Discussion Starter #4
if I might make a suggestion. I previously had my subwoofer connected to the rear door speakers. however I have found that my head unit (2014) limits the frequencies as you get lower to the rear speakers. because of this, I decided to tap into the subwoofer +/- on the previous connector. I found that I was able to reproduce significantly lower frequencies this way. food for thought!
Thanks for the suggestions! If I’m understanding correctly, you both tapped the same signal, just zjuretich did it from the harness and mdwash33 from the woofer itself. Is that right?
 

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Thanks for the suggestions! If I’m understanding correctly, you both tapped the same signal, just zjuretich did it from the harness and mdwash33 from the woofer itself. Is that right?
I believe so. It’s been so long since i’ve worked on it that I can’t remember exactly, but unless the subwoofer +/- wires that come out of the stock amp go to Narnia, I can’t think of any reason to believe they aren’t the same wires. I’m currently moving my subwoofer from my trunk, and building a custom enclosure for the spare tire well. Tapping off of the stock subwoofer outputs, plus a fully customizable EQ and I should be able to get a nice flat frequency response. I’ll be working on it some more in the next week, I’ll be sure to take a look at which wires I’m tapped into and let you know if I find anything different.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
I believe so. It’s been so long since i’ve worked on it that I can’t remember exactly, but unless the subwoofer +/- wires that come out of the stock amp go to Narnia, I can’t think of any reason to believe they aren’t the same wires. I’m currently moving my subwoofer from my trunk, and building a custom enclosure for the spare tire well. Tapping off of the stock subwoofer outputs, plus a fully customizable EQ and I should be able to get a nice flat frequency response. I’ll be working on it some more in the next week, I’ll be sure to take a look at which wires I’m tapped into and let you know if I find anything different.
Thanks, I really appreciate it! I’ve tried to hit pins 7 and 15 which are “Center Speaker” on the middle harness, however they give little to no signal. I assumed that middle harness was purely for the the rear deck, but I may be mistaken. For now I’m still on the rear door and dealing with the loss of low low frequencies.
 

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Thanks, I really appreciate it! I’ve tried to hit pins 7 and 15 which are “Center Speaker” on the middle harness, however they give little to no signal. I assumed that middle harness was purely for the the rear deck, but I may be mistaken. For now I’m still on the rear door and dealing with the loss of low low frequencies.
Try 12/25 or 13/26. They are labeled “woofer.” I’m 90% sure those are the ones i’ve tapped into, I just haven’t had the chance to go and look.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Try 12/25 or 13/26. They are labeled “woofer.” I’m 90% sure those are the ones i’ve tapped into, I just haven’t had the chance to go and look.
Wow. The difference between this and the rear speakers is night and day. The frequency range still isn't quite where I want it, but I haven't played around with any of the filters on my amp yet. The POWER though, I don't even have words to describe the difference. Tapping into the rear speakers definitely worked, as in I could tell if my sub was playing or not, however using pins 13/26 (green/orange) on the large harness has neighborhood-rattling power. Thank you so much for the help @zjuretich, @mdwash33, and everyone from the original sub thread. Hopefully this weekend I can finally get around to finishing my install so this megathread can be finished and the whole process documented in one place for the next guy.
 
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Wow. The difference between this and the rear speakers is night and day. The frequency range still isn't quite where I want it, but I haven't played around with any of the filters on my amp yet. The POWER though, I don't even have words to describe the difference. Tapping into the rear speakers definitely worked, as in I could tell if my sub was playing or not, however using pins 13/26 (green/orange) on the large harness has neighborhood-rattling power. Thank you so much for the help @zjuretich, @mdwash33, and everyone from the original sub thread. Hopefully this weekend I can finally get around to finishing my install so this megathread can be finished and the whole process documented in one place for the next guy.
Of course, just be sure to not blow your sub and amp. I’m sure you know this, but pushing a powered (~50w) signal through an amp, which boosts it yet again, to the subwoofer can easily blow the subwoofer if played too loud. If you’re using an LOC (can’t remember and i’m too lazy to scroll up) then that shouldn’t be a problem. If you’re looking for a better frequency response, i’m currently working on a DIY EQ circuit that should allow for precise control of all frequencies down to 20hz. Once i’m done with the project I’ll do a write up and let you know how it goes/link the parts of you’re interested.
 

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+1 Interested in DIY EQ
 
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