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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi All :

Been a while since I posted.... but here goes.

I was changing to my winter wheels a found the rear brake pads were totally done. I decided to change the rotors as well and ran into a real "wonderful" piece of KIA engineering. In order to take the rotor off, you have to remove the caliper bracket. One of the caliper bracket bolts runs right through the rear sway bar mount which DOES allows you the get a wrench in there but NOT to entirely remove the bolt. I tried to remove the rotor and the bracket together, but the casting around the wheel hub won't allow the caliper bracket to clear without completely removing the bolt, which is still locked inside the sway bar mount. Removing the sway bar bolt then causes that bolt's head to run up against the shock mount, again making it unable to be removed. Do I really need to remove the shocks to change a rotor ?

So this is like a going into the circle of hell just to change a rotor, typically a ten minute job !

Has anyone had to change a rear rotor and what did you do ?
 

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What year Cadenza?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
2014, but I suspect the 2014-2018 will all be the same.

I also have the official KIA workshop manual which says to remove the rear shocks and the upper arm. Yes, you will need to take the lower shock saddle bolts but it's silent on the sway bar bolt. I had to abandon the disc change as I'd run out of time due to this unanticipated work so I've not actually completed the disc installation. I had to be satisfied with just changing out the pads.

That KIA engineer really needs to be taken to the woodshed for such ametuer design work.
 

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30,000 miles, largely city driven.
If your rear (or even front!) rotors are "gone" by 30,000 miles, you have some sort of serious problems with your brakes! I only just changed out my fronts at 68,000 and my rear's still have tens of thousands of miles left on them.
 

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How many miles is on your Cadenza?
I have 26000 miles on my 2014 cadenza, kia dealers tell me my pads need replacing, my regular neighborhood mechanic says no not yet, i Live in Brooklyn,ny, most driving is stop and go and i figure by 30000 miles I'll be ready for new pads ...Just saying
 

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2015 Kia Cadenza - Snow White Pearl
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I bought my 2015 Cadenza at 30,000 miles and I had to replace rear pads and rotors at 40,000. I鈥檓 not sure if the rotors needed replacing, but the pads did so I decided to do both so I鈥檇 have fresh rotors for my ownership. It was my first foray into brake jobs and doing my own maintenance, but I was able to get the caliper and mounting bracket off on one side in an embarrassingly long amount of time. What defeated me were the two small rotor screws on the front face of the rotor that held it in place. I stripped both of them, bought a drill, failed, gave up, put it back together, and paid Firestone the $400 to be done with it as my weekend was coming to an end. Anyways, here鈥檚 some tips:

When jacking up the car, always use both a jack stand and a jack at the same time on solid, flat ground. Sometimes these things fail, but it鈥檚 highly unlikely both will fail at the same time if you鈥檙e doing it right. DO NOT USE THE SCISSOR JACK THAT CAME WITH THE CAR. It鈥檚 not worth saving $60 if you walk/get carried away with life-lasting injuries.

Brakes get hot and will burn you, let them cool first for at least an hour before you start working on them.

If you鈥檙e just replacing the rear brake pads and your car has the electronic parking brake, you need some special tool or something in the software to push the caliper piston back in. I tried using the usual tools and it wouldn鈥檛 budge. It鈥檚 a good thing I never got that far when I first did the rear brake job because I still have no idea how to push that piston back. If anyone knows what to use, please let me know. The usual tools may work if you don鈥檛 have the EPB but I鈥檓 not certain.

New rotors come with a thin layer of oil on them to prevent rust. Wipe the whole rotor off with brake clean and a towel before you install.

This video explains the whole process for rear pads and rotors. The title says 2013 Optima but as far as I know it should work for at least 2014-2016 Cadenzas. At 4:00, I didn鈥檛 have to loosen that second control arm bolt on the inside. A hammer worked fine but your mileage may vary. At 11:15, you NEED to use the prybar. If you don鈥檛 have one, buy one. At 13:00, listen to the man and put in the bolt like he did so that there鈥檚 less work for you next time.

https://youtu.be/AL_rAXEkFZc If you鈥檙e only doing front brake pads or rotors, consider yourself lucky. 2 bolts for the calipers, two bolts for the bracket, 2 screws for the rotor (Don鈥檛 strip them). This video by Klelious Davis explains the process. At 5:40, he mentions having to file down the brake pad clip. Maybe it鈥檚 just the pads he bought, mine didn鈥檛 need it. I bought Akebano brake pads, and the mistake I made was not putting copper anti-seize on the metal backing plate where the pad touches the calipers. My brakes always squealed first thing in the morning, the calipers left marks on the pads, and the brake pedal has a slight vibration when pressed. I鈥檒l be changing the pads soon and adding the anti-seize, I just haven鈥檛 had a chance to do it yet so hopefully that鈥檒l fix the problem.
 

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Thanks. Very good info. I鈥檓 getting too old for this stuff, but when the time comes, I鈥檒l take a look to see if I can still do it. Front brakes were always easy.
I hate having a shop doing it because they always want to change the rotors, even if the rotors look clean and groove free.
I鈥檝e heard the rears are difficult.
 
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