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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Cadenza community!

I’m 100% going to struggle trying to work around the intake manifold in order to reach the back three spark plugs! I’m afraid I’m going to break something and or put
Something back together wrong and i’d just like to avoid tearing my car up when possible! Again, I’m clueless as to how to go about removing what I’m assuming is the intake manifold. (Pretty obvious I’m not a seasoned mechanic) Is there anything I need to worry about when doing so etc. I haven’t found anything helpful enough no matter where I look; So I’m just hoping someone on here will have some direction for me or even be able to point me in the direction of a previous post! Thank you all in advance.


Here’s a Little background on my car — I recently Purchased my 2014 Kia Cadenza Premium back in late November of last year from CarMax that currently has 48,500 miles on it, though when I bought it, she had barely 46,000 on odometer. I had very little insight on previous owners which was either fleet use or used as an executive vehicle which was eventually sold through an action and made its way to the CarMax here in SanDiego. The vehicle has a clean title, in very clean condition, obvious it was maintained well. My only concern is when it comes to
Past maintenance... which from what I’ve gathered; not a single maintenance interval had been completed through any Kia dealership and I’d assume it being fleet use or executive use the company had obviously utilized their in-house mechanics or possibly just went to mom and pop shops.
So, that being said I have no intel to it’s past, don’t know what works been done on it and I’ve decided to start tackling some of the little things on my own and doing the spark plugs seemed like a good starting point as I’ll get a chance to personally inspect them for oil and any other kind of wear and tear that may point to other potential problems.
 

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Our cars shouldn’t need spark plugs until around 90,000-100,000 miles, but I, like you, did them early as well. It really isn’t too difficult, just time consuming. Go ahead and remove the intake, there should just be the two bolts on the bumper, then it should lift out. after that, there are a handful of pipes and wires you need to disconnect. it would take me pages to describe what you need to do, but Klelious Dave (I think that’s his name) has a wonderful tutorial on youtube for our exact cars. Consider replacing the PCV valve while you’re at it, our cars tend to have those go faulty, and it is MUCH easier to get to with the intake off. it’s a really cheap part and takes an extra 3 minutes on top of the spark plugs.

If you decide to replace the PCV valve as well, it is directly below the throttle body, it is attached with a vacuum tube, easy to miss the first time, difficult to lose after that. it just looks like a tube going into a wall with a nut on it. Let me know if you have any other questions. (Klelious Dave also has a tutorial on replacing the PCV valve, give that a watch if you’re interested.)
 

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Oh! and before you make the same mistake I did, be VERY careful with the intake manifold bolts, they snap easily. I overtightened them and snapped two. Go me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the reply! Uhm two bolts on the bumper? I’m I reading that wrong hahah!

I did however find a very well out together video on YouTube Kate last night. It was a two part video and man was I un-prepared for how much stuff needs to come off just to get to those damn spark plugs in the back.

Only reason considered changing them early was due to some rough cold starts. I usually leave my house at 3:30 in the morning temp is usually
Mid to high 30’s and it will do the typical
High idle and occasionally it will increase just a little bit as if the computer is adjusting for something. I have also noticed and I don’t know how to properly explain it but the exhaust kind of “puffs” a few times. Yeah I know poor explanation. I also did noticed when it’s really cold when I start it the amount of exhaust smoke pouring it seems extremely suspicious. And in that note after warm up and highway driving smoke is gone and just to clarify it never smokes that heavy other then early morning cold starts. So to the note: That PCV valve I was made aware that if it’s failing it can cause smoke like that, correct? What other symptoms does a failing PCV have?
 

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To me that seems like PCV valve issues, it can cause rough idle as well, but i’m not a mechanic. And no, I didn’t mean the two bolts on the bumper, I meant the two bolts on the actual top of the engine itself. Pain in the butt to get those back out.
 

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Hopefully it's something as simple as the PCV valve that's causing the smoke at startup as mine @ 80k miles has none at startup and nothing mechanical has been done to it yet...I'm waiting until around 100k to do several things all at once. Mine only smokes when it's been driven easy for several days and then you step on it...as all direct injection engines do.
 

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I was looking up spark plugs in Kia Parts, and the price is outrageous.

Anyone have the plug ID for the 2017 Cadenza in NGK, Autolite, Champion etc.

Years ago, I used to use the Autolite Double Platinum plugs in my cars. Never had problems. Want to see what is available and price per plug.
 

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What about intake Manafold gaskets?
 

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You shouldn’t need intake manifold gaskets just to replace the spark plugs
Well, did you replace rear bank plugs without removing intake manifold, or did you remove manifold and reuse manifold gasket?
 
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