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Discussion Starter #1
I installed a front camera today. I want to be able to see in front of me when parking in tight spaces. After examining the wiring diagram, I figured I could trick the head unit to switch the screen by sending the head unit my own "backing" signal. I also intercepted the rear camera input with a relay to be able to send the front camera signal.

Installation involved a front camera, two SPDT relays (one to choose the camera input, the other to send a back-up signal to trigger the screen to come on), and a switch so as to activate the front camera.

The logic works this way - when I turn on the switch, the front camera turns on and shows on screen. If I put it in reverse (whether front camera is on or off), the reverse camera is always shown. Front camera turns off after turning off the switch.

Pics:





Video in Action:

Cadenza Front Camera - YouTube

The lines for the front camera come from the head unit (not the camera). I am still tuning the camera, will point it more down to get a better view of tight parking.

I'll do a full write-up on the install later.
 

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PLEASE do a write up. I want this. Just not great with relays.
 

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I installed a front camera today. I want to be able to see in front of me when parking in tight spaces. After examining the wiring diagram, I figured I could trick the head unit to switch the screen by sending the head unit my own "backing" signal. I also intercepted the rear camera input with a relay to be able to send the front camera signal.

Installation involved a front camera, two SPDT relays (one to choose the camera input, the other to send a back-up signal to trigger the screen to come on), and a switch so as to activate the front camera.

The logic works this way - when I turn on the switch, the front camera turns on and shows on screen. If I put it in reverse (whether front camera is on or off), the reverse camera is always shown. Front camera turns off after turning off the switch.

Pics:





Video in Action:

Cadenza Front Camera - YouTube

The lines for the front camera come from the head unit (not the camera). I am still tuning the camera, will point it more down to get a better view of tight parking.

I'll do a full write-up on the install later.
this is indeed awesome; the 2015 is supposed to have the front camera and surround view monitor, but, the ones delivered so far (SXLs) have that shown as a 'delete package' on the msrp sticker. the delete package deducts $1000.00 on the sticker and deletes also the side fender vents and a couple of other things I can't remember right now; another strange move by KIA.

This would be a totally wonderful thing to add as I also would like to have the front view for parking; I wonder if somebody can create this as an aftermarket item? HINT to K5 Optima David; would love to order this if you and YOOSHAW could work out a plan!!

Kudos!
 

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this is indeed awesome; the 2015 is supposed to have the front camera and surround view monitor, but, the ones delivered so far (SXLs) have that shown as a 'delete package' on the msrp sticker. the delete package deducts $1000.00 on the sticker and deletes also the side fender vents and a couple of other things I can't remember right now; another strange move by KIA.

This would be a totally wonderful thing to add as I also would like to have the front view for parking; I wonder if somebody can create this as an aftermarket item? HINT to K5 Optima David; would love to order this if you and YOOSHAW could work out a plan!!

Kudos!
Yooshaw; another thought. Does the front camera stay on and active in drive, or, is it a stationary 'photo' effect when you turn it on; I guess I'm asking if it moves like the rear camera does with the car as a 'live' feed.

thanks; sorry if that's a dumb question!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
this is indeed awesome; the 2015 is supposed to have the front camera and surround view monitor, but, the ones delivered so far (SXLs) have that shown as a 'delete package' on the msrp sticker. the delete package deducts $1000.00 on the sticker and deletes also the side fender vents and a couple of other things I can't remember right now; another strange move by KIA.

This would be a totally wonderful thing to add as I also would like to have the front view for parking; I wonder if somebody can create this as an aftermarket item? HINT to K5 Optima David; would love to order this if you and YOOSHAW could work out a plan!!

Kudos!
Didn't know the 15s were not shipping with them yet, KIA must have got ahead of itself with the surround view monitor.

I don't think this would be a store item honestly. The parts are very cheap - I think I have spent about $35 to $45 on parts, with extra relays and switches left over. I'll put a parts list together once I do the installation guide. This is not a simple plug and play type thing - you have to take apart the front dash, cut some wires in the factory harness, etc.

The front camera is a live video feed. I wired the front camera to power on with the switch. So when the switch is off, the camera gets no power. If I flip the switch doing 65mph, you'll see the live video moving down the highway.
 

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** Part 1**

First off, this is just a guide, I am not responsible for modifications you make to your car.

Products you need (parenthesis are links to what I actually bought)

- Camera - make sure to get one that is front facing - most rear cameras mirror the image to show correctly on the view screen for backing-up. I also recommend getting a camera with NO back-up lines. The Cadenza head unit automatically puts in the lines. If the camera puts the lines on too, you will see two sets of lines on the screen. (Amazon.com : Pyle PLCM38FRV Universal Mount Optional Front View and Rearview Backup CMD Distance Scale Line Camera : Vehicle Backup Cameras : Car Electronics $23

- Two Relays (Amazon.com: AGT (5 Pack) 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style (40AMP-HRNS): Automotive $14 plus 3 relays left over

- Switch (Amazon.com: New 10PC Car Truck Rocker Toggle LED Switch Red Light On-Off Control: Automotive) $6 plus 9 switches left over

Total spent was $43. Note you may need to buy some other stuff. Since I already had these items, I did not include them in the total. Other items:

24 gauge wire, wire strippers, add-a-fuse, soldering iron and solder (you can use crimp connectors), some type of adhesive, heat shrink and/or electrical tape, screwdriver, trim remover tool (flathead screwdriver can be used), socket wrench with 8 and 10mm sockets, needlenose pliers, and some others I am probably forgetting.

Camera Installation. Open the hood, and remove the black plastic trim piece that sits between the front bumper and the radiator (see attached Diagram 1). The bolts and plastic screws are straightforward. You'll also have to remove the front air intake. This comes right off once you remove those two bolts. After the bolts are out, the plastic piece comes out by pulling toward the passenger cabin and up. The front part is retained by some small plastic clips. It felt like I was going to break it at the ends, but with enough force it came out fine with no damage.

The camera I bought comes with a metal mount device attached to the camera. It looked to me the camera itself could fit inside a grill opening. I went ahead and snapped off the metal mount, and sure enough the camera fit in nicely. If I pushed it far enough back in, it actually wedged into place. Don't permanently secure it yet, as you will have to aim the camera for proper orientation.

I then ran the video out wire and the power wire towards the driver's side firewall. Along the way, I grounded the power wire near the strut tower (you can use whatever bolt you find, as long as it's attached to the body). I like to use a multimeter to test the ground point.

I then cut one end of the video cable (cut off the yellow RCA portion). This leaves just the wire. Also, depending upon the length of your wires, you may need extend them using your own wire. I always solder wires I splice together and cover with heat shrink.

The red hot wire and the video feed cable was then routed where the main electrical connectors enter the car on the driver's side firewall. I temporarily taped the two wires together to make it a little easier to get the wires through the grommet and into the car. This is a tight space for hands, and took me some finagling to get it past the grommet and inside the cabin.

I'll do two more parts for this DIY. Part 2 will be head-unit and front fascia removal, and part 3 will be wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
**Part 2**

Front Fascia and Head Unit Removal

You should disconnect the car battery at this point.

The attachments show the diagram of where the clips are holding the front fascia onto the dash. I used a trim removal tool wrapped in electrical tape (so as to not knick anything). A flat head screwdriver should work fine. I started by prying from the top right corner, slowly working and prying to get the clip to release. The first clip was difficult, as the tension from the other clips would cause it to snap back in place. Once you get the first one out, hold it out while working on another clip. It gets easier from there as the clips come out. Go slowly and carefully and it will come out without damaging anything. Once the front fascia is out, disconnect the harnesses and tube, and put it to the side.

Now you can remove the head unit. There are four screws holding it in place. Remove the screws, being careful not to drop them inside the dash (you may not be able to get it back). Once the screws are out, pull out the headunit as far as you can, and start disconnecting the multiple (8 or so) connections on the back. Take note of the two white harnesses towards the bottom left (when looking from above). The right hand one of those two is the one to work with.

Put the head unit to the side, and locate that harness. Confirm you have the right harness by comparing it to the attached picture of the connector. The other connector also has green and white wires, so it is important to confirm the connector matches the picture (there are differences in the two connectors themselves). The wires you want are green (AV+) and white (Backup +). Peel back the shield that is covering the wire bundle to expose as much of the wire as possible. You'll notice the green wire is wrapped in tape next to a yellow wire (the yellow wire is AV-, and won't be used, but seeing it wrapped with the green confirms you have the right wire). The green and white wires are on opposite ends of the connector. Cut both green and white wires, leaving enough room on both ends to be able to strip some insulation away to get to bare wire. Strip the wires on both ends (should strip 4 ends).

That's it for Part 2 - Part 3 will cover the rest of the wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
**Part 3**

Wiring

I'll apologize up front for my wiring diagram (attached) - decided it was easiest to draw it out. Not the prettiest, but hopefully illustrates how to wire everything up. I soldered all my connections and used shrink wrap or electrical tape to cover the exposed wires. You don't have to solder, but I like to to ensure a good connection.

Front camera wire. Since you cut off the yellow RCA tip of the video signal wire, you have to strip the wire to reveal the two wires inside. When you strip the outer casing, you'll find bare wire around another shielded wire. The bare wire is the video (-), and should be grounded (twist the small strands together to make a bigger, single wire). The small shielded wire inside is the video (+). Strip the insulation on this wire and run it to 87a on the Video Relay (per the wiring diagram).

Relays - depending on the brand relay you have, you may or may not have wires coming from the relay. If you do, verify what the wire colors are so you can wire correctly. The ones I linked to are: 85-red; 86-yellow; 87-blue; 87a-white; 30-black.

Switch - Has three prongs. Typically the brass colored prong is ground, the one furthest away is +12v in, and the middle is +12v out. For my input, I tapped into the fuse box Power accessories with a add-a-fuse. I had already tapped this earlier for a hardwired dashcam, so I spliced into this. You can tap into any of the fuses except ABS/Air Bags ones, leave those alone. I'd pick one only powered with ACC to ensure you don't inadvertently leave it on and drain the battery.

The diagram shows different grounding points, but you can combine all the ground wires to one and ground wherever. I ended up running a ground wire near the front fuse panel to a bolt I found attached to metal.

Once all your wires are run for the relays and switch per the diagram, you can tuck both relays to the left of where the head unit sits. You'll see a small "cubby hole" there where they fit in nicely. I used double sided sticky tape to make sure they don't rattle around in there.

Switch location - I chose to mount it on the fuse panel pull. You can place it where you want, but you do have to drill a hole for the switch to sit in. Once the hole is drilled, the switch is held in with tension.

Since there are wires running under the driver side footwell, I zip tied those wires up and out of the way to ensure they would not fall down while driving - could be dangerous if they interfere with the gas or brake pedal while driving.

At this point, double check your wiring, and reconnect the head unit (double check to make sure to not miss re-connecting anything). I then loose fitted the front fascia. Reconnect your car battery and test it out. If all checks out, re-button everything back up.

At this point you can aim the camera how you want. I'm still experimenting here, trying to get a view that shows more downward vice straight ahead. Once I get the final position, I plan to use black RTV sealant to hold it in place.

Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
 

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Awesome! Easy to follow for me. I'll be doing this in a couple weeks.
 

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Awesome! Easy to follow for me. I'll be doing this in a couple weeks.
Great! Let us know how it goes and any other tips/tricks you may find. I think you **could** forgo the back-up signal relay with diodes. I ordered some, but they have not come in yet. May switch it out when the diodes come in to see, would make wiring a little less cumbersome.
 

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I tried to re-orient the front camera last night. In order to point it more downward, you have to mount it outside the opening in the grill. Inside the grill, there's no room to point it downward. I managed to mount it outside the opening with RTV sealant, using the outside of the grill opening for support.

The mounting position is definitely not stealth, but provides a better picture of the front of the car. Not really happy about how it looks (I'll post pictures later after it cures), but I prefer the function over form in this case. It's not terrible, but not as stealthy as before.

Since the car has a blunt nose, it also makes it hard to really see where the car is in relation to other objects. On the rear camera you can see the end of the trunk - you can't see anything on the car in the front. I think once I get used to how the line markers are in relation to the car, it should be fine.
 

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Hi guys. I am new here and hoping to get some help. I am in Nigeria and I have a 2014 Cadenza. It came with a SMALL LCD, NON-touch screen. Problem is my screen went blank after I mistakenly sprayed some dashboard cleaner on it. When I tried to buy a replacement, I only found the big touch screen (on Ebay). I erroneously assumed it would be d same socket and my current harness will fit into it and I would only have to change the screen bezel/cover to the bigger sized one. Now my replacement screen is here but the socket dont match my small screen and so it doesnt fit in the wire harness. Does anyone know any workaround to this. I wondered if there might be some sort of universal harness that will plug into the wire harness socket on one side and fit into the screen's socket. I have attached pictures of both screens, in case that will make a difference.
N.B : My current small screen and the harness in the car has about 13 pins. The new screen has 9 pins.
 
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