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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I've been improving on my car lighting recently, which involved upgrading to LED rear turn signals (load resistors involved), LED license plate lights, some interior lighting, and HID headlights.

So basically, I'm having two questions now that I hope would be answered:

a. Since there are no wires visible, how do you fit load resistors for the front turn signals?

b. Is there a way/mod to make the DRLs turn off while turn signals are on?
 

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I don't have the answer, but the wires are there going to the housing for each head light system. Ideally once you know what colors they are, strap the resister to them. That said, if you figure it out, do share because I'd love to get these to LED as well. I went with some nice Red LED's in the rear and what a different to the way the car looks...
 

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Hey guys. I've been improving on my car lighting recently, which involved upgrading to LED rear turn signals (load resistors involved), LED license plate lights, some interior lighting, and HID headlights.

So basically, I'm having two questions now that I hope would be answered:

a. Since there are no wires visible, how do you fit load resistors for the front turn signals?

b. Is there a way/mod to make the DRLs turn off while turn signals are on?
I don't have the answer, but the wires are there going to the housing for each head light system. Ideally once you know what colors they are, strap the resister to them. That said, if you figure it out, do share because I'd love to get these to LED as well. I went with some nice Red LED's in the rear and what a different to the way the car looks...

I've had LED turns up front for a while now with load resistors (but took them out recently, explained below). You just have to remove some of the black tape at the connector to reveal the wires going into the headlight and then tap into the right ones (I don't have that info handy, but can provide it).


I've figured out a potential easier way though. I've found where the turn signals are under the dash in the cabin - right near the fuse panel. You could tap the resistors there, but, you'd have to find a place for the resistors (keeping in mind those suckers get extremely hot). Since I'm redoing my headlights, I added LEDs inside the positioning lights, and the extra load from this negates the need for resistors.


To answer the DRL question (are you in Canada, or do you mean positioning lights? Either way same process), you can get it to turn off with the turn signal (switch back function). I'm actually tackling this now with my headlights. I bought some switch back modules, and will tap into the turn signals and DRL/positioning light wires in that location near the fuse panel to get them to work.


After spending 8+ hours on my headlights this weekend, I'm taking a break for the holidays and will get back on it after the new years. Can share more then with some pics as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I don't have the answer, but the wires are there going to the housing for each head light system. Ideally once you know what colors they are, strap the resister to them. That said, if you figure it out, do share because I'd love to get these to LED as well. I went with some nice Red LED's in the rear and what a different to the way the car looks...

I might do that soon as I already have the resistors and bulbs. Gonna share if I fit those.

Red rear LEDs seem like a great idea, might try that as well!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've had LED turns up front for a while now with load resistors (but took them out recently, explained below). You just have to remove some of the black tape at the connector to reveal the wires going into the headlight and then tap into the right ones (I don't have that info handy, but can provide it).


I've figured out a potential easier way though. I've found where the turn signals are under the dash in the cabin - right near the fuse panel. You could tap the resistors there, but, you'd have to find a place for the resistors (keeping in mind those suckers get extremely hot). Since I'm redoing my headlights, I added LEDs inside the positioning lights, and the extra load from this negates the need for resistors.


To answer the DRL question (are you in Canada, or do you mean positioning lights? Either way same process), you can get it to turn off with the turn signal (switch back function). I'm actually tackling this now with my headlights. I bought some switch back modules, and will tap into the turn signals and DRL/positioning light wires in that location near the fuse panel to get them to work.


After spending 8+ hours on my headlights this weekend, I'm taking a break for the holidays and will get back on it after the new years. Can share more then with some pics as well.

Yeah I have the DRLs apart from the positioning lights.

So I'm assuming that the headlight connector has all the wires in it (headlamp, DRL, high beams, positioning). How do I figure out the turn signal part? In the rear it was all clear (what a rhyme:D).

I think it would be easier to fit those in the cabin, but could you indicate in detail where those wires are? Also it's all plastic in there (I guess) so where should the resistors sit?

Last question, where do I find the switchback modules? As I've been looking for those on the web but wasn't sure about which was right for me :eek:.
 

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Yeah I have the DRLs apart from the positioning lights.

So I'm assuming that the headlight connector has all the wires in it (headlamp, DRL, high beams, positioning). How do I figure out the turn signal part? In the rear it was all clear (what a rhyme:D).

I think it would be easier to fit those in the cabin, but could you indicate in detail where those wires are? Also it's all plastic in there (I guess) so where should the resistors sit?

Last question, where do I find the switchback modules? As I've been looking for those on the web but wasn't sure about which was right for me :eek:.
All the wires are at the connection to the headlight.

Bottom right hand corner is the LH front headlight connector. Pin 11 is DRL (L/O is the wire color, maybe Lavendar/Orange stripe?) and Pin 3 is the turn signal.




Top left corner is RH side. Same pins, different wire colors



As I mentioned, you can find these same wires under the dash and could wire it in there.

You'll need to take apart the bottom part of the dash to get access. On the fuse panel, look for connector I/P-L (bottom left in pic below)




And wiring diagram for I/P-L. Pins 1 and 10 are the turn signals (verified myself this morning), and Pins 2 and 3 are the DRLs.



I was going to wire in the switchback modules, but decided to use a SPDT relay instead. I wired it to where the DRL turns off with the blinker, turns back on when the blinker is off, and turns back off when the blinker is on. Creates a "wig-wag" effect. Makes it more noticeable I think. Still undecided if I like it, may revert to the switchback modules.

I got two sets of switchbacks, one from Diode Dynamics (S1 Switchback Module (pair) - Power Control and Dimmers - Accessories - All Products) and one from TRS (https://www.theretrofitsource.com/led-lighting/morimoto-xchange-switchback-drivers.html#.VnrvmPkrK70). I've yet to install these, so can't comment immediately, but of the two, the Diode Dynamics module feels more stout and well built. It's bigger than the TRS module though.
 

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@Yooshaw, quick question.

In US model, what pin of the headlights connector turn ON only the LED positioning lights?

I can see DRLs and Parking lights. but Parking Lights normally turn on Led positioning plus the tail lights.
 

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@Yooshaw, quick question.

In US model, what pin of the headlights connector turn ON only the LED positioning lights?

I can see DRLs and Parking lights. but Parking Lights normally turn on Led positioning plus the tail lights.
The parking light pin out powers the positioning light and yellow side marker light. In stock form, those lights come on when you turn on the parking lights or headlights. You'd have to wire it differently if you want it to behave differently.
 

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The parking light pin out powers the positioning light and yellow side marker light. In stock form, those lights come on when you turn on the parking lights or headlights. You'd have to wire it differently if you want it to behave differently.

@Yooshaw do you have the kia tech PDF's for our fuse panel(I/P-A, I/P-B, I/P-C,I/P-N) Im trying to wire the fog lights as DRL's and need the wiring diagram for the fuse panel.
 

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@Yooshaw do you have the kia tech PDF's for our fuse panel(I/P-A, I/P-B, I/P-C,I/P-N) Im trying to wire the fog lights as DRL's and need the wiring diagram for the fuse panel.

I do, and can get it when I get home for you later tonight. I can't remember if the fog lights run through the front panel or not. Back when I had my fogs wired as DRLs, I re-routed the wire to an unused fuse under the hood that was hot when the car turned on.
 

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I do, and can get it when I get home for you later tonight. I can't remember if the fog lights run through the front panel or not. Back when I had my fogs wired as DRLs, I re-routed the wire to an unused fuse under the hood that was hot when the car turned on.
Did you post a write up on the site for the fog as DRLS?
 

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Ok so maybe I got a little ahead of myself, is the fog light function fuse (external lights) not located under the steering wheel?
 

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The parking light pin out powers the positioning light and yellow side marker light. In stock form, those lights come on when you turn on the parking lights or headlights. You'd have to wire it differently if you want it to behave differently.
Would it be possible to tap power from the positioning light to power the fog lights to power on with the parking lights?
 

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Would it be possible to tap power from the positioning light to power the fog lights to power on with the parking lights?
Possible, but I wouldn't chance it. The positioning and parking lights are relatively low power, and the circuit was designed for that. The fogs draw much more power, and could blow a fuse or worse.

You could tap the parking light with a relay to trigger the fogs.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
 

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Possible, but I wouldn't chance it. The positioning and parking lights are relatively low power, and the circuit was designed for that. The fogs draw much more power, and could blow a fuse or worse.

You could tap the parking light with a relay to trigger the fogs.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

If I went the relay route do you think it'll be enough juice? would this also require a relay per fog light?
 
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