Kia Cadenza Forum banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So for some odd reason the positive cable on the 2014 Kia Cadenza becomes fried. The symptoms of the fried wire is the alternator no longer charges the battery. It gives a false alternator failure. Most people my self include it will replace the alternator. Once the alternator is replaced the symptom takes roughly 15 to 30mins to come back. The only fix is to replace the positive wire going from the alternator to the battery. I went with a size zero gauge wire. The only problem with the size zero gauge wire is the battery warning light will occasionally illuminate on the dash. Drivability is not effect when the light flashing. My guess is the car computer is sensing a voltage spike due to the size zero gauge wire. Or in other words a overcharge is detected. Failure to replace the wire in the vehicle will cause you to loose electrical power and the car will soon leave you stranded on the side of the road. Here is a link that shows the replacement.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
Hi, great instructions in your video. I have been wanting to do this for the past couple of months, I don't have an issue with my alternator/battery not charging but I just put in a 1300W stereo system in my car and probably need to do the BIG 3 upgrade on the alternator/battery wiring. Did you also change out your ground wires? (battery ground to frame, ground wire from engine to frame) You're supposed to have the same potential between ground and power, so same gauge wire for both power and ground. Maybe that's why the warning light is coming on, as you said maybe the system is detecting a voltage spike? (not sure)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
I noticed that you have an extra wire attached to the positive cable. Where you attached to is the Battery Voltage Detection System, which helps to control the alternator to charge the battery. Basically, the module you attached to sends battery voltage information to the ECM, which in turn controls the alternator appropriately to maintain the state of charge of the battery. By attaching a power source directly to the terminal, that reading becomes inaccurate, interfering with how the alternator charges the battery.

There's a post inside the under hood fuse box you can connect to, and since it is downstream of the battery, will not cause this interference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
182 Posts
I noticed that you have an extra wire attached to the positive cable. Where you attached to is the Battery Voltage Detection System, which helps to control the alternator to charge the battery. Basically, the module you attached to sends battery voltage information to the ECM, which in turn controls the alternator appropriately to maintain the state of charge of the battery. By attaching a power source directly to the terminal, that reading becomes inaccurate, interfering with how the alternator charges the battery.

There's a post inside the under hood fuse box you can connect to, and since it is downstream of the battery, will not cause this interference.
Hey Yooshaw thanks for the response. That makes total sense. It looks like he has a power wire for a stereo system possibly, which is connected exactly the same as my setup... so I might have this issue soon... In my case the stereo shop used a 1/0 power wire to power the stereo system.. would I be able to connect that big of a wire to the fuse box terminal that you are talking about?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
855 Posts
Hey Yooshaw thanks for the response. That makes total sense. It looks like he has a power wire for a stereo system possibly, which is connected exactly the same as my setup... so I might have this issue soon... In my case the stereo shop used a 1/0 power wire to power the stereo system.. would I be able to connect that big of a wire to the fuse box terminal that you are talking about?
I think it depends on the terminal if it will fit. Here's a pic from the Optima of that post, it looks the same as ours as far as I can tell - should be easy to see and look at. If the terminal doesn't fit, you could always get a smaller one.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have to ask if you upgraded your alternator to a high output 1, I put 1 on an my battery light came on,so far after 3 drives its different lengths of time an 1 startup it didn't, 3 drives an 1 startup at this point.any help will be greatly appreciated. Bernee
Also the two batteries I installed are both new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
212 Posts
I have to ask if you upgraded your alternator to a high output 1, I put 1 on an my battery light came on,so far after 3 drives its different lengths of time an 1 startup it didn't, 3 drives an 1 startup at this point.any help will be greatly appreciated. Bernee
Also the two batteries I installed are both new.
Our cars come with a 150A alternator. Not sure why you want/need to go to all the extra expense of only a little bit more current of a "high output" alternator. Sounds to me the likely cause is the "new" alternator causing the light to come on. How do you know the new alternator is designed to work with our setup? How do you know if it was installed and wired correctly? Very important questions.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top