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My 14 Cadenza just reached 60,000 miles. Just wanted to check what the every one suggests to make sure to get done. Already had the transmission flush done at 57 to 58,000. Brakes are also good to go as of now. Live in California where summer is 100F and got mountains to drive through.

Thanks!
 

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KIA recommends Transmission fluid flush in some vehicles at 60000 miles . I'm more if it isn't broken don't fix it
I'd go by what the manual says for the 60000 mile checkup
 

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Brake fluid flush, Radiator flush, you got low miles, but based on age the belt should be checked for cracks and changed if necessary.
 

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I'm at 50k (6 yrs soon, woo!) and just had my brakes flushed. Wasn't sure if they were just pulling my leg and trying to get money when they said the brake was going to the floor more than most Cadenzas so the fluid was probably fouled. A quick search on what it was online I had them go ahead and do it (no way in **** am I going to try to bleed my own brakes) and have found that brake actuation starts earlier now action is better overall.


On an unrelated note, my camera screen is now black T .T Before I have it replaced I'll try to check fuses and see if warmer weather helps. Tech said it happens sometimes in the cold... happened just after service. Oil change, brake flush, tire rotate, and rear license bulb replacement.
 

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Nissan actually says brake fluid should be replaced every 2 year, I think most everyone else is 3 years. It does make a difference. Water, contamination and just breakdown of the fluid cause it to be less effective (compresses more) over time, and over a shorter time then most people would realize.
 

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I’m at 65k and I haven’t done my 60k service yet. I’ve just replaced my brakes and rotors (man my car goes through those quick) and I’ve been thinking about the transmission flush. A local shop quoted me $130, which isn’t bad, but as a college student I’m not looking forward to that. Is it necessary? Also, how smooth are your shifts? Mine seem to be “okay” most of the time. Usually under acceleration (where the gears shift around 3000-3500 rpm) it tends to clunk into gear. It’s not harsh, but not nearly as smooth as our cars are rated to be. Could this be a sign of needed a tranny flush?
 

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I am really surprised at all the recommendations for brake flushing. I've never read this before...at least nowhere near the time frame you all are passing along. Over the years most fluids have been extended not shortened...i.e. oil now commonly runs to 7500 miles or beyond vs the "standard" old 3000, lifetime transmission oil, lifetime antifreeze which I believe both are based on 100,000 miles but still so much more than the old days where 45,000 and 25,000 were standard recommendations for those.

My car now has around 68k on it, 55k of it in the last 2 years, but I haven't touched a thing! Not even the very often recommended throttle body cleaning...and all is perfectly fine. I did just replace the front pads at 65k and tires all around back at 45k but that's it. Everything else is original. I'm like Gene in that I (mostly) believe in don't mess with it if it ain't broke! For this thread, I don't feel any significant change to my braking performance at this time, certainly not enough to be convinced to perform a brake flush yet. Maybe another 20-35k (would be 85-100k on the car and another year to 2 from now)? Who knows. We'll see.

Edit:
For reference after just reading Zjuretich's post (he posted while I was writing mine) the front pads replacement at 65k was the first time it had been done and the rotors were not replaced as they were hardly worn and were perfectly smooth and flat. I was very surprised at this find and actually the first time I've seen rotors in such good condition when pads needed to be changed. Zjuretich, it would seem to me you are somehow ending up with inferior quality in the metal of the rotors and cheap pads, not the ceramic ones recommended for our cars. Either that and/or you are an extremely hard/harsh braker! But I doubt that is the cause.

For your transmission, yes, harder or longer times to shift can possibly be "corrected" by changing out the fluid. If you sense even little changes in your shifting, that's the first thing I would do and fairly quickly as not to cause any (possibly further) damage to the transmission internals.
 

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I am really surprised at all the recommendations for brake flushing. I've never read this before...at least nowhere near the time frame you all are passing along. Over the years most fluids have been extended not shortened...i.e. oil now commonly runs to 7500 miles or beyond vs the "standard" old 3000, lifetime transmission oil, lifetime antifreeze which I believe both are based on 100,000 miles but still so much more than the old days where 45,000 and 25,000 were standard recommendations for those.

My car now has around 68k on it, 55k of it in the last 2 years, but I haven't touched a thing! Not even the very often recommended throttle body cleaning...and all is perfectly fine. I did just replace the front pads at 65k and tires all around back at 45k but that's it. Everything else is original. I'm like Gene in that I (mostly) believe in don't mess with it if it ain't broke! For this thread, I don't feel any significant change to my braking performance at this time, certainly not enough to be convinced to perform a brake flush yet. Maybe another 20-35k (would be 85-100k on the car and another year to 2 from now)? Who knows. We'll see.

Edit:
For reference after just reading Zjuretich's post (he posted while I was writing mine) the front pads replacement at 65k was the first time it had been done and the rotors were not replaced as they were hardly worn and were perfectly smooth and flat. I was very surprised at this find and actually the first time I've seen rotors in such good condition when pads needed to be changed. Zjuretich, it would seem to me you are somehow ending up with inferior quality in the metal of the rotors and cheap pads, not the ceramic ones recommended for our cars. Either that and/or you are an extremely hard/harsh braker! But I doubt that is the cause.

For your transmission, yes, harder or longer times to shift can possibly be "corrected" by changing out the fluid. If you sense even little changes in your shifting, that's the first thing I would do and fairly quickly as not to cause any (possibly further) damage to the transmission internals.
I bought the car at 45k miles, and the previous owner "put new pads and rotors on." They sucked. My rotors developed a vibration quickly. I put ceramic pads on myself with high quality rotors at about 58k miles after the pads started to squeak. Since then I've had to do one or two emergency stops, but not enough to warrant any new pads or vibrations. Yet, a braking vibration seemed to have come back slightly, but only at times. Oh well, I'll figure it out eventually. As for the transmission, it sounds like I need new fluid. Sometimes my shifts take a while, especially from a rolling stop. During those rolling stops, it seems to bang into gear after over a second or two of throttle input. Quite unpleasant. I guess I'll be forking out for that. Thanks for your help!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the input. I'll be checking my belt to see if it needs to be done and otherwise everything else should be good. Thanks!!!
 

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I am really surprised at all the recommendations for brake flushing. I've never read this before...at least nowhere near the time frame you all are passing along. Over the years most fluids have been extended not shortened...i.e. oil now commonly runs to 7500 miles or beyond vs the "standard" old 3000, lifetime transmission oil, lifetime antifreeze which I believe both are based on 100,000 miles but still so much more than the old days where 45,000 and 25,000 were standard recommendations for those.

My car now has around 68k on it, 55k of it in the last 2 years, but I haven't touched a thing! Not even the very often recommended throttle body cleaning...and all is perfectly fine. I did just replace the front pads at 65k and tires all around back at 45k but that's it. Everything else is original. I'm like Gene in that I (mostly) believe in don't mess with it if it ain't broke! For this thread, I don't feel any significant change to my braking performance at this time, certainly not enough to be convinced to perform a brake flush yet. Maybe another 20-35k (would be 85-100k on the car and another year to 2 from now)? Who knows. We'll see.

Edit:
For reference after just reading Zjuretich's post (he posted while I was writing mine) the front pads replacement at 65k was the first time it had been done and the rotors were not replaced as they were hardly worn and were perfectly smooth and flat. I was very surprised at this find and actually the first time I've seen rotors in such good condition when pads needed to be changed. Zjuretich, it would seem to me you are somehow ending up with inferior quality in the metal of the rotors and cheap pads, not the ceramic ones recommended for our cars. Either that and/or you are an extremely hard/harsh braker! But I doubt that is the cause.

For your transmission, yes, harder or longer times to shift can possibly be "corrected" by changing out the fluid. If you sense even little changes in your shifting, that's the first thing I would do and fairly quickly as not to cause any (possibly further) damage to the transmission internals.

Generally I see recommendations of brakes being flushed every 30k miles. Kia told me every 15 but 30 seems about right to me. Also, talking about oil and fluids breaking down, I would take a deeper look into that if I was you, physics haven't changed from "back then". Dino oil still breaks down and needs changed around 3k miles. The reason most vehicles now are 7.5k, like our Cadenzas, is that they use a BLEND of dino and synth. It doesn't last nearly as long as full synth (15k) but the synth in there helps the general longevity of the oil itself, breaking down and fouling less overall due to volume of dino itself. With a lot of newer materials and synthetics there are both good and bad points to it, like brake fluid. Some of the newer stuff is great... as long as absolutely NO moisture gets in there.

As for the brake fluid I never noticed my brakes not actuating as well as they once did. When he told me initially I figured they were just wanting more money (I generally have a negative view of service depts. lol). I looked up the info online and after reading for a few minutes authorized them to do it. After driving it back home I did notice quite a bit of difference and I was surprised. I'm also quite glad I did it. As for everything else, I do the recommended maintenance because 1. Kia recommends it and keeps me within my warranty, and 2. it's what the manufacturer of whatever parts/fluids/replaceable warrants for. Sure I can probably get away with using my oil for 6mo-1yr or 20k+ mi, but what harm is being done by that? Maybe none, sure, but I really don't want to take that risk. I know some people do and they are just fine with it, just not my thing. I always advise people to read up on what they're saying, sometimes it could be dangerous.
 
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