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Discussion Starter #1
Hi
I have replaced original Halogen Headlight Housing to HID housing.
But when it turns on, lights are keep flickering or off.
I tried to figure out that might be power shortage because HID need to more electric power than halogen which my car suit to halogen housing. I am not sure what caused problems.
Since I bought new housing that HID ballast is new. So the ballast shouldn't be the problems I think.
Any thought?
Thank you
 

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Because HID is more complicated, and takes more power, and gets HOT, had it been me, I would’ve kept the original housing and installed LED bulbs.

BTW, although my 2017 came with LED’s, in the past, I never had problems when using Quartz Halogen (Quartz Iodide) bulbs. When they became available about 50 years ago, replacing the old Sealed Beam lights, I bought a set of “Cibie” housings that took two H1 bulbs each. Great. In later years, unused headlamps with H4 bulbs. Again, great.
 

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I would’ve kept the original housing and installed LED bulbs.
I completely disagree. Factory is always better than after market on things like this! There are a few threads here that discuss getting factory HID housings from wrecked cars (ebay or whatever) and then replacing their factory halogen set up. It can be complicated because there are different types of factory HID housings depending on country of origin, etc. so you have to know what you are getting.

As far as helping b721, I don't think there is enough information plus the way it's written it's very difficult to understand exactly what he's trying to say. If you sourced factory housings you should have gotten the factory ballast's as well. They would be the best match and should have no problems.

Both you guys have the power consumption confused. Halogen bulbs take much more power than equivalent HID's. That was part of the reason manufactures started to switch over in the first place...less power consumption. So, if you kept the original bulb wiring to the replacement factory ballast's and you made good splices, power is not your issue.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I have factory housing replaced which shouldn't have a problems. Halogen factory housing to HID factory housing. Then it happens that lights are keep flickering or dead. I will try to connect "extra" relay harness. Hopefully it will work.
 

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I completely disagree. Factory is always better than after market on things like this! There are a few threads here that discuss getting factory HID housings from wrecked cars (ebay or whatever) and then replacing their factory halogen set up. It can be complicated because there are different types of factory HID housings depending on country of origin, etc. so you have to know what you are getting.

As far as helping b721, I don't think there is enough information plus the way it's written it's very difficult to understand exactly what he's trying to say. If you sourced factory housings you should have gotten the factory ballast's as well. They would be the best match and should have no problems.

Both you guys have the power consumption confused. Halogen bulbs take much more power than equivalent HID's. That was part of the reason manufactures started to switch over in the first place...less power consumption. So, if you kept the original bulb wiring to the replacement factory ballast's and you made good splices, power is not your issue.
They switched because HID is brighter than Halogen. Not because it takes less power.

LED is slightly brighter, has a higher color temperature, but also uses less power.
 

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The point was that you were incorrect in that halogen bulbs use less than HID's. They do not, not even close. And yes, power was part of the driving factor, just like it has been for the past decade. Auto manufacturers are always looking for a way to reduce electrical power consumption & weight.
 
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If you say Halogen does not use less power than HID, ok, I’ll believe you.

The only thing I like about HID that’s used in FACTORY HOUSINGS, (compared to LED in factory housings) is that the bulbs can be replaced when they go bad. With LED, the whole factory housing must be replaced.
(Beaucoup Bucks). This has nothing to do with replacing aftermarket LED bulbs into stock factory Halogen housings.

As I said before, even though my car has factory LED headlamps,
I never had or have problems with
Quartz Iodine-Quartz Halogen headlights.
 

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There's a chance that the halogen equipped cars are pulsing the current to the bulb. This is done for various reasons, usually to help determine if the bulb has burnt out. Due to the nature of Halogen bulbs (passing electrical current through a filament), this pulsing is not observalble in a Halogen bulb.

Are you getting any warnings on the dash when you turn on the lights? This pulsing is not good for the ballast in your new HID set-up (assuming that pulsing is what is happening).

The dealer may be able to change the computer to recognize the headlights as HID, to stop the pulsing Alternatively, you may be able to wire in some capacitors to smooth the pulsing current (again, assuming this is what is happening).

BTW, HID does draw more power than Halogen on start-up. HID bulbs require a significant amount of current to start the HID arc - usually somewhere between 10-15 Amps (120-150 Watts). After the arc forms, power will dip down to 35 watts to maintain the Arc (well below typical Halogen of 50-65W). This is why for retrofitted HID, a harness is recommend to allow for the start-up amperage required.
 

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As I said before (I think I said it before), if my car had the Quartz Halogen housing, and wanted brighter headlights, I would just replace the Quartz Halogen bulbs with LED bulbs. A lot less expensive. Available everywhere.

Or; seeing as how he paid beaucoup bucks for the Halogen Housing, I would have looked for LED housings at a recycling yard from a Totaled SXL. Bulbs already in the housing. (This is assuming the SXL of that year came with LED Housings).
 

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The problem is that LEDs do not do very well (unless you consider blinding on coming cars as "well") in housings with reflectors and lenses focused for halogen bulbs.
 

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The problem is that LEDs do not do very well (unless you consider blinding on coming cars as "well") in housings with reflectors and lenses focused for halogen bulbs.
I hear you. Not only aftermarket bulbs in halogen housings, but also OEM LED bulbs in OEM LED Housings in large SUV’s and PickUp trucks, due to the headlights being so high. I get blinded by them all the time.

Also some cars, although the headlights are not high, when that car goes over a hump in the road, the “cutoff” raises causing the bright lower part to blind you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
There's a chance that the halogen equipped cars are pulsing the current to the bulb. This is done for various reasons, usually to help determine if the bulb has burnt out. Due to the nature of Halogen bulbs (passing electrical current through a filament), this pulsing is not observalble in a Halogen bulb.

Are you getting any warnings on the dash when you turn on the lights? This pulsing is not good for the ballast in your new HID set-up (assuming that pulsing is what is happening).

The dealer may be able to change the computer to recognize the headlights as HID, to stop the pulsing Alternatively, you may be able to wire in some capacitors to smooth the pulsing current (again, assuming this is what is happening).

BTW, HID does draw more power than Halogen on start-up. HID bulbs require a significant amount of current to start the HID arc - usually somewhere between 10-15 Amps (120-150 Watts). After the arc forms, power will dip down to 35 watts to maintain the Arc (well below typical Halogen of 50-65W). This is why for retrofitted HID, a harness is recommend to allow for the start-up amperage required.
There is no warning sign at all. On dash board there is nothing wrong. Since this is new HID housing, bulb and ballast are fine too. As you said, maybe pulsing problem with new HID which means that I need to check up at dealer for computer set up. This is last thing I would expect to happen because it will cost a lot I guess.
 

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There is no warning sign at all. On dash board there is nothing wrong. Since this is new HID housing, bulb and ballast are fine too. As you said, maybe pulsing problem with new HID which means that I need to check up at dealer for computer set up. This is last thing I would expect to happen because it will cost a lot I guess.
I can't say for the Cadenza, but I do know that on some Lincolns, this is exactly the problem when converting from factory halogen to factory HID. The LCM (Lighting Control Module) has to be reprogrammed for HID so that it stops doing the PWM to check for bulb out. Interestingly, the Lincolns won't warn you about a headlight being out (they do warn about just about every other bulb), but having a headlight out does set an OBDII code that you can read.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Dealer says that can't be reprogrammed.
Since I already have all the HID kit, I used wire adapter - D1S to H7 - to connect halogen housing power code directly and connected ballast and warning canceler. It works without extra wiring from the battery. It looks original HID headlights assembly.
 
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