Possible Failing Alternator - Kia Cadenza Forum
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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Possible Failing Alternator

Yet another post from me guys, sorry!
So I pulled into the garage late last night, and once the garage door had closed, I noticed the whole space was flickering intensely. I checked the light on the garage door opener to guarantee it wasn't that, it wasn't. So I then looked at all of the lights on my car, and noticed they were all flickering and flashing like mad. The interior LED's, my LED foglights, my taillights, and the eyebrow over my headlights. (HIDs were fine as they are run off of a ballast)I then went into the car and revved the engine a bit, and the flickering got much worse! To the point where my lights would be completely off and then turn back on. I've noticed my interior lights flickering in the past, and sometimes my foglights a bit too, but I just figured that was because they were LEDs and installed after original purchase (so maybe they didn't have the correct adapter or something?) But the eyebrows, which are stock on every car, those shouldn't ever flicker. Is this a sign of a failing alternator? Also, would this contribute to the HID flicker I have over sharp bumps or is that a completely different issue?

Last edited by zjuretich; 08-18-2019 at 12:28 PM. Reason: Forgot something
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 01:31 PM
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Not sure where you live, But first have the battery checked.
I'm in Arizona and a battery lasts about 3 years down here.
They say it is the heat, and with the sealed batteries you
can't add fluid
I had a situation some what like that the seats would even
move on there own lights would light up and go out.
Go to some place like auto Zone, they will check your battery
and alternator for free.
Unless it is under warranty, Then go to dealer
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 01:52 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gene View Post
Not sure where you live, But first have the battery checked.
I'm in Arizona and a battery lasts about 3 years down here.
They say it is the heat, and with the sealed batteries you
can't add fluid
I had a situation some what like that the seats would even
move on there own lights would light up and go out.
Go to some place like auto Zone, they will check your battery
and alternator for free.
Unless it is under warranty, Then go to dealer
unfortunately out of warranty, and I just got the battery replaced about 8 months ago. Iím just up here in Utah. The weird thing is, is my lights donít flicker when powered solely by the battery, only when the car is running and the alternator is spinning. I will definitely take a stop by autozone during the next couple of days, thanks!
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 06:59 AM
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I would say it's either the alternator or much worse and I hate to say it, the computer. I don't know which computer controls the charging circuit but I do know that in many late model cars there is no longer a voltage control circuit in the alternator instead it's all controlled by the computer which takes into account battery temperature (there is a temp sensor under the battery), outdoor temp and current load on the alternator to provide the correct voltage. First stop would be a place like Auto Zone mentioned above for a electrical system check out then provided they say your alt and batt are good, then the dealer, sorry.

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 10:05 AM
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I wouldn't wait a few days, I'd get this checked at the parts store as soon as they open. And with that, take it with a grain of salt they aren't master technicians. One thing to consider, Batteries Plus, they have a comprehensive tester, and they are likely better trained at battery/alternator testing then the guys at the auto-parts store.
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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:17 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by onlyjeeps View Post
I would say it's either the alternator or much worse and I hate to say it, the computer. I don't know which computer controls the charging circuit but I do know that in many late model cars there is no longer a voltage control circuit in the alternator instead it's all controlled by the computer which takes into account battery temperature (there is a temp sensor under the battery), outdoor temp and current load on the alternator to provide the correct voltage. First stop would be a place like Auto Zone mentioned above for a electrical system check out then provided they say your alt and batt are good, then the dealer, sorry.
Thanks for the input. Iím planning on taking my car over to Autozone or somewhere of the sort this wednesday. If they canít find anything wrong with the alternator iíll take your advice and go over to the dealership, crossing my fingers though!
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MadMax View Post
I wouldn't wait a few days, I'd get this checked at the parts store as soon as they open. And with that, take it with a grain of salt they aren't master technicians. One thing to consider, Batteries Plus, they have a comprehensive tester, and they are likely better trained at battery/alternator testing then the guys at the auto-parts store.
unfortunately I have school and work 6am - 11pm until wednesday, but the first chance I have I will for sure be over testing it out. Itís been getting worse over the past few days. Yesterday when I turned my car off I lost all electronics immediately, headlights turned off, radio quit, nothing. they came back on but was still a shock. (didnít even have powered seat)
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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:42 PM
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I remember when the battery on mine went out this last time, it was pretty strange behavior. When it wouldn't start, i got this odd pulsing out of the aftermarket sub, was actually audible in the speaker, never had issues with the sub ever. Voltage was too low, starter wouldn't crank, then "womp womp womp...like 7-8 times" then stop. Once I got it jumped it would start fine, no oddity. But let the bat drain for a few hours, same oddity. Got that battery replaced the next day, couldn't be stranded.

Your issue is a little different, but similarly bizarre. Ideally it's just a bad battery and when they test it they can swap it for you.
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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MadMax View Post
I remember when the battery on mine went out this last time, it was pretty strange behavior. When it wouldn't start, i got this odd pulsing out of the aftermarket sub, was actually audible in the speaker, never had issues with the sub ever. Voltage was too low, starter wouldn't crank, then "womp womp womp...like 7-8 times" then stop. Once I got it jumped it would start fine, no oddity. But let the bat drain for a few hours, same oddity. Got that battery replaced the next day, couldn't be stranded.

Your issue is a little different, but similarly bizarre. Ideally it's just a bad battery and when they test it they can swap it for you.
Iím hoping for something of the sort, as my battery is still under warranty. I just got a new one about 8-9 months ago and had it tested 4-5 months ago. Everything checked out then, so who knows
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 08-21-2019, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Spent about two hours today going to different places to try and figure out the problem. I started with Batteries Plus, who tested my battery and alternator and said everything looked fine (see picture below.) Afterwards I went to the dealership, who wouldn't tell me any possible problems but told me that they were going to charge me $140 just to see if there was one. Being a college student I decided to pass over that "great deal" and move on to my local repair shop who, after retesting my alternator, said they didn't know much about electronics. I've decided that I think I'm just going to let this ride out and see if any other issues show up or if it gets any worse. As I've said before, the problem is off and on, and it hasn't happened in the past two days. Crossing my fingers it was just a glitch.
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